PERKINS  LIBRARY 


Duke  U, 


iversity 


Kare  Dooks 


C    •/,  ^'*^^^^^t 


CILLCTT 


THE 

YOUNG  GARDENER'S 

CONTAINING  A  CATALOGUE  OF 

WITH  PRACTICAL  DIRECTIONS  UNDER  EACH  HEAD, 

FOR  IHE  CULTIVATION  OF 
SOME  OF  WHICH 

ARE  NOT  GENERALLY  INTRODUCED  INTO  THE 
UNITED  STATES. 


BY  T.  BRIDGEMAN, 

U  iRDESER,  SEEDSMAN  AND  FLORIST,  NEW-YORK 


Ibe   end  of   ail  instruction,  should  be  tlie  attainment  ov 
useful  knowledge." 


BROOKLYN: 

TKINTIP  BY  NICHOLS  AND   MATTHEWS,  156  Fl/LTON-^T. 

1829. 


■'Southern  District  of  New-York,  ss  : 

BE  IT  RF.MEMBEKED,  That  on  the  iwenty-nfih  day  o( 
Feb.  A.  D.  1829,  in  the  fiity-lhird  year  of  the  Independence  o4" 
the  United  States  of  America,  Thomas  Bridgeman,  of  the  said 
district,  hath  deposited  in  this  otRce  the  title  ot  a  book,  the 
light  whereof  he  claims  as  author  in  the  words  following,  to 
wit : 

"  The  Young  Gardener's  Assislant :  containing  a  catalogue 
of  Garden  and  Flower  Seeds,  witli  practical  directions  under 
each  head,  for  the  cultivation  of  Culinary  Vegetables  ;  some 
of  which  are  not  generally  introduced  into  the  United  States. 
Hy  T.  Bridgeman,  Gardener  Seedsman  and  Florist,  New-York. 

"  'The  end  of  all  instruction  should  be  tbe  attainment  of 
useful  knowlpdge.'" 

la  conformity  to  the  act  of  Congress  of  (In^  United  Slates, 
entitled,  "An  act  for  the  encouragement  of  learning,  by  se- 
ruring  the  copies  of  inapj,  charts,  and  books,  to  the  authors 
and  proprietors  of  sjch  copios,  during  the  times  therein  raen- 
1  toned;"  and  also,  to  an  act,  entitled,  "  An  act  suppleraenta- 
vy  to  an  act,  enlillnd,  an  act  for  the  encouv.igement  of  learn- 
ing, by  securing  the  copies  of  maps,  charts,  and  boolc?,  to  thti 
authors  and  proprietors  of  such  copies,  during  the  time  there- 
in mentioned,  and  extending  the  benefits  thereof  to  the  arts  ®f 
(Icsixnina;,  engraving,  and  etching  historical  and  other  prints.  " 

FRED.  J.  BETTS, 
CIc'k  of  the  Southern  District  of  INew-York. 


PREFACE.  ^O^r/V 

TiiE  object  of  this  little  work  is  to  enable  oiirres*' 
pcctable  seedsmen,  while  they  are  furnishing  a  cata- 
logue of  seeds  for  the  use  of  the  Kitchen  and  Flow- 
er Garden,  to  afford  instructions  at  a  trifling  expenst- 
to  such  of  their  customers,  as  may  not  have  a  regu- 
lar  gardener,  and  thereby  save  themselves  the  blame 
of  those  who  may  not  give  their  seeds  a  fair  trial,  for 
want  of  knowing  how  to  dispose  of  them  in  the 
ground, 

The  author  asks  no  preference  over  his  fellow 
tradesmen  in  this  department.  He  believes  that  the 
world  is  wide  enough  for  all,  and  is  willing  that 
every  man  should  keep  his  own  custom  ;  and  being 
aware,  that  however  anxious  seedsmen  may  be  to  sell 
such  seeds  as  will  please  their  customers,  they  arc 
sometimes  charged  with  dishonest  intentions  from 
the  failure  of  seeds, when  the  fault  lies  not  with  them, 
but  with  the  gardener.  He  will  endeavor,  therefore, 
in  his  humble  way,  to  render  himself  useful,  both  to 
the  seedsman  and  the  gardener,  by  giving  brief  direc- 
tions for  the  management  of  the  Kitchen  Garden,  in 
such  a  way  as  to  insure  success.  In  doing  this  he 
would  remind  the  public,  that  as  brevity  must  be 
consulted  in  this  work,  he  cannot  be  expected,  in  a 
few  pages,  to  do  that  justice  to  a  subject  which  is 
only  to  be  found  in  the  books  of  eminent  horticultu- 
rists.   He  hopes,  however,  to  be  sufficiently  explicit 


IV  PREFACE. 

i9  give  his  readers,  a  taste  for  the  pleasurable  ai)^ 
profitable,  as  well  as  healthful  employment  of  garden- 
ing and  thereby  lead  them  to  the  perusal  of  other 
n'orks  of  a  more  extensive  nature  He  also  intends 
to  devote  a  few  pages  to  the  attention  of  our  fair 
country  women,  and  direct  them  to  a  rational  and  de- 
lightful recreation.  To  this  end  he  will,  (after  fur- 
nishing a  catalogue  of  some  of  the  most  esteemed 
kinds  of  flower  seeds,)  give  brief  directions  for  pro- 
moting the  growth  of  these  seeds,  while  in  the  seed 
bed,  leaving  it  to  their  own  good  taste  and  judge- 
ment to  arrange  the  plants  of  these  beauties  of  na- 
ture, so  as  to  set  them  off  to  the  best  advantage. 

The  author  is  aware  that  the  occupation  of  garden- 
ing is  attended  with  difficulties,  but  he  flatters  himself 
that  in  proportion  as  his  readers  feel  interested  in  the 
welfare  of  their  vegetable  progeny,  in  like  proportion 
will  they  obtain  pleasure  and  satisfaction  in  their  suc- 
cessful employment.  To  obtain  this,  he  would  re- 
commend them  to  make  up  their  minds  as  to  what  ve- 
getables or  flowers  they  intend  to  introduce  into  their 
gardens,  and  then,  after  having  procured  good  seeds, 
let  them  have  every  suitable  implement  ready  to  be- 
gin the  work  at  the  proper  seasons  for  preparing  and 
planting  the  garden.  These  will  be  shown  in  the  f-^ ' 
lowing  pages,  interspersed  with  directions  on  some 
other  important  subjects  connected  with  this  under- 
taking. T.  BRIDGEMAN. 

Bovvery  Road,  January,  1829. 


GENERAL  REMARKS. 

Before  I  commence  the  Catalogue,  it  may  be 
necessary  for  me  to  direct  the  reader^s  attention  to 
some  important  matters  e?sential  to  the  good  man- 
agement of  a  garden. 

The  mode  of  laying  out  the  ground,  is  a  matter  of 
taste,  and  may  be  left  to  the  gardener  himself^;  the 
form  being  a  thing  of  trifling  importance  in  the  pro- 
duction of  useful  vegetables,  or  whether  the  ground 
be  laid  out  in  beds  of  four  or  ten  feet  wide,  provided 
it  be  well  worked,  and  the  garden  kept  neat  and  free 
from  weeds. 

Tho-e  who  have  not  a  garden  already  formed, 
should,  however,  fix  on  a  level  spot  where  the  soil  is 
deep  ;  but  as  we  have  not  always  a  choice,  I  would 
recommend  the  reader  to  that  which  is  within 
the  reach,  and  ought  to  be  the  object  of  every  maUj 
namely,  to  make  the  most  of  what  he  has. 

Previous  to  entering  on  the  work  of  the  garden,  the 
gardener  should  lay  down  rules  for  his  future  govern^ 
ment.  In  order  to  this,  he  should  provide  himself 
with  a  blank  book.  In  this  book  he  should  first  lay 
out  a  plan  of  his  garden,  allotting  a  place  for  all  the 
different  kinds  of  vegetables  he  intends  to  cultivate. 
As  he  proceeds  in  the  business  of  planting  his 
grounds,  if  he  were  to  keep  an  account  of  every  thing 
he  docs  relative  to  his  garden,  he  would  soon  obtain 
s-i^me  knowledge  of  the  art.  This  the  writer  ha& 
1* 


6  GENERAL  REMARKS. 

done  for  the  last  nine  years,  and  he  flatters  himself 
that  a  publication  of  the  results  of  his  practice,  will 
be  interesting  and  useful  to  his  readers. 

One  great  article  to  be  attended  to  is,  to  have  a  sup- 
ply of  good  old  manure  and  other  composts  ready  te 
incorporate  with  the  earth  ;  also  a  portion  of  ashes, 
soot,  tobacco  dust  and  lime,  for  the  purpose  of  sow- 
ing over  seed  beds  in  dry  weather  ;  this  will  tend  in 
a  great  measure  to  destroy  insects  which  sometimes 
cut  off  the  young  plants  as  fast  as  they  come  up. 

If  the  ground  cannot  be  all  manured  as  it  should 
be,  it  is  of  primary  importance  that  those  vegetables 
be  provided  for  which  most  need  manure.  A  peru- 
sal of  the  catalogue  will  enable  the  young  gardener 
to  judge  of  the  kinds  of  garden  products  which  re- 
quire most.  Lest  I  should  not  have  been  explicit 
eiiough  in  this  particular,  I  would  inform  him  that 
good  rich  manure  is  indispensably  necessary  for  the 
production  of  Brocoli,Cauliflower,Cabbage,  liCttuce. 
Spinage,  Onions,  Radishes  and  Salads  in  general. 

In  the  event  of  a  scanty  supply  of  manure,  those 
kinds  of  vegetables  which  are  raised  in  hills  or  drills, 
may  be  provided  for  by  disposing  of  the  manure  im- 
mediately under  the  seeds  or  plants. 

The  next  important  matter  is  to  have  the  ground  in 
suitable  condition  to  receive  the  seed.  I  would  wish 
it  to  be  understood,  tliat  I  am  an  advocate  for  early 
sowing  and  planting,  even  at  thcrisk  of  loosing  a  little 
seed,  provided  the  ground  be  fit  to  receive  it.  A  light 
sandy  soil  will  be  benefitted  if  worked  when  moist, 
as  such  treatment  will  have  a  tendency  to  make  it 
more  compact  ;  on  the  contrary,  if  a  clay  soil  be 
worked  when  too  wet,  it  kneads  like  dough,  and  ne» 


GENERAL  REMABKS.  7 

ver  fails  to  bind  when  drought  follows,  and  this  not 
only  prevents  the  seeds  from  rising,  but  injures  the 
plants  materially  in  their  subsequent  growth,  by  its 
becoming  impervious  to  the  moderate  rains,  dews, 
air  and  influence  of  the  sun,  all  which  are  necessary 
to  the  promotion  of  vegetation. 

Some  gardeners,  as  well  as  some  writers,  recom- 
mend certain  fixed  days  for  sowing  and  planting  par- 
tictdar  kinds  of  seeds  ;  I  think  it  necessary  to  guard 
my  readers  from  being  misled.  The  failure  of  crops 
may  be  often  attributed  to  the  observance  of  certain 
days  for  sowing.  If  some  kinds  of  seeds  be  sown 
when  the  ground  is  wet  and  cold,  they  will  become 
chilled  in  the  ground,  and  seldom  vegetate.  If  they 
be  sown  in  very  dry  weather,  the  germinative  parts  of 
the  seed  may  become  injured  by  the  burning  rays  of 
the  sun,  or  the  young  plants  may  get  devoured  by 
insects  as  fast  as  they  come  up.  To  obviate  these 
difficulties,  I  have  generally  allowed  a  week  or  ten 
days  for  the  sowing  of  the  seeds,  intending  the  medi- 
um as  the  proper  time  for  the  vicinity  of  New  York. 
With  this  clearly  borne  in  mind,  the  reader,  who  ob- 
serves the  difference  in  the  degrees  of  heat  and  cold 
in  the  different  parts  of  the  country,  will  know  how  to 
apply  these  instructions  accordingly. 

Much  depends  on  the  manures  used  on  particular 
kinds  of  soils.  The  great  art  of  improving  sandy  and 
clayey  soils,  is  to  give  the  former  such  dressings  of 
clay,  cow  dimg  and  other  kinds  of  manure,  as  will 
have  a  tendency  to  bind  and  make  them  more  com- 
pact, and  consequently  more  retentive  of  moisture  ; 
and  to  the  latter,  coats  of  horse  dung,  ashes,  sand,  and 
4uch  other  composts  as  may  tend  to  separate  the  par- 


S  GENERAL  REMARKS. 

tides  and  open  the  pores  of  the  clay  so  as  to  cause  it 
to  approach  as  near  as  possible  to  a  loam. 

The  nearer  the  ground  approaches  to  a  sandy  soil, 
the  less  retentive  will  it  be  of  moisture  ;  the  more  to 
a  clayey,  the  longer  will  it  retain  it ;  and  the  finer  the 
particles  of  which  the  clay  is  composed,  the  more  te- 
nacious will  it  be  of  water,  and  consequently  be  lon- 
ger in  drjfing,  and  the  harder  when  dry  ;  but  earth  of 
a  consistence  that  will  hold  water  the  longest,  without 
hecoming  hard  ivhetidry,  is  that  of  all  others,  the  best 
adapted  for  raising  the  generality  of  plants  in  the 
greatest  perfection.  This  last  described  soil  is  cal- 
led loam,  and  is  a  medium  earth,  between  the  ex- 
tremes of  clay  and  sand. 

I  have  in  most  cases  recommended  drills  to  be 
made  at  certain  depths  for  the  dilTerent  kinds  of  seeds, 
and  when  I  have  stated  that  the  drills  should  be  two 
inches  deep,  it  is  intended  that  the  seeds  should  be 
covered  only  one  inch,  which  they  will  be  when  plan- 
led  in  these  drills  and  covered — and  so  in  proportion 
I'or  any  other  depth  required.  This  may  serve  as  a 
guide  to  the  young  gardener,  but  circumstances  alter 
oases  ;  if  for  instance,  some  particular  crops  should 
fail,  this  would  render  it  necessary,  if  the  season  be 
far  advanced  to  risk,  a  further  planting  of  seeds,  even 
if  the  weather  be  hot  and  the  ground  dry  ;  if  these  be 
planted  a  little  deeper,  they  may  escape  the  violent 
jieat  of  the  sun,  and  in  the  event  of  a  shower,  the 
ground  wou'd  become  sufficiently  moist  to  bring 
r:iem  up  ,  whereas,  it  sometimes  happens  that  seed 
vown  after  a  shower  do  not  vegetate  until  after  the 
season  is  too  far  advanced  to  bring  the  crop  to  per- 
fection. 


GENERAL  REMARKS. 


The  work  of  drilling  may  be  performed  in  various 
ways  ;  in  some  cases  a  plough  is  used,  in  others  a 
small  hoe,or  a  dibble  drawn  along  the  edge  of  a  board 
or  line  ;  it  is  of  little  consequence  which  way  the 
work  is  done,  if  it  be  well  done.  While  I  leave  the 
gardener  to  make  his  own  choice  of  tools,  I  would 
suggest  that  he  be  provided  with  two  or  three  drilling- 
machines  ;  these,  every  handy  man  may  make  fo^* 
himself;  they  should  be  in  the  form  of  a  garden  rake, 
with  a  stout  heavy  back  and  five  teeth  two  inches 
broad,  and  tapered  so  as  to  enter  the  ground  and  leave 
drills  two  mcnes  deep.  If  one  be  made  with  the  teeth 
eight  inches  apart,  another  twelve,  and  another  four- 
teen, they  wiil  oe  useful  in  making  drills  for  various 
seeds,  and  drills  thus  made,  serve,instead  of  straining 
a  line,  for  every  row  in  planting  Cabbage,  Lettuce, 
Leeks,  &c.  the  line  being  strained  at  one  edge  of  the 
bed,and  the  drylling  machine  drawn  strait  by  the  line, 
makes  five  drills  at  once.  If  they  are  straight  they 
may  be  kept  o  by  keeping  one  drill  open  for  the  out- 
side tooth  to  v;ork  in  until  the  ground  be  all  drilled. 

Gardeners  ;>ractice  difierent  methods  of  covering 
up  seeds,  soaie  do  it  with  a  hoe,  others  with  a  rake  or 
harrow  ;  some  draw  a  portion  of  the  earth  to  the  side 
of  the  bed,  and  after  sowing  the  seeds, re  turn  it  regu- 
larly over  ihe  bed  ;  in  some  particular  cases  a  sieve 
is  used,  in  ..tbers  a  roller.  Rolling  or  treading  in 
seeds  is  necessary  in  dry  seasons,  but  it  should  never 
be  [done  when  the  ground  is  wet. 

There  is  nothing  that  protects  young  crops  of  Tur- 
nips, Cabbage  and  other  small  plants  from  the 
depredation  of  the  fly,  so  well  as  rolling  ;  for  when 
the  surface  is  rendered  completely  smooth,  these  in« 


iO  GENERAL  REMARKS. 

sects  are  deprived  of  the  harbour  they  would  other- 
wise have  under  the  clods  and  small  lumps  of  earth. 
This  method  will  be  found  more  efTectual  than  soak- 
ing the  seed  in  any  preparation,  or  dusting  the  plants 
with  any  composition  whatever  ;  but  as  the  roller 
must  only  be  used  previous  to,  or  at  the  time  of  sow- 
ing the  seed,  and  not  even  then  if  the  ground  be  wet, 
it  is  necessary  that  the  gardener  should  have  a  hogs- 
hond  always  at  hand  in  dry  weather,  containing  infu- 
sions made  of  waste  tobacco,  lime,  soot,  cow  dung, 
riJc",  burdock  leaves,  &c.  A  portion  of  these  ingre- 
dients, or  any  other  preparation  that  is  pernicious  or 
poisonous  to  insects,  without  injuring  the  plants, 
tlirown  into  a  hogshead  kept  fdled  up  with  water,  if 
used  moderately  over  beds  of  young  plants  in  dry 
v.cathcr,  would,  in  almost  every  case,  insure  a  suc- 
cessful crop. 

If  it  be  necessary  at  any  time  to  sow  seeds  in  dry 
weather,  it  is  recommended  to  soak  the  seed  in  water 
mixed  with  sulphur.  This  practice,  with  attentive 
Avatcring,  will  cause  the  seed  to  vegetate  speedily. 

If  it  should  be  requisite  to  transplant  any  thing 
wher.  the  ground  is  dry,  the  transplanting*  should  be 
always  done  as  soon  as  the  earth  is  fresh  turned  over, 
and  the  roots  of  the  plants  should  be  steeped  in  mud 
made  of  rich  compost,  before  they  are  set  out. 

I  have  in  most  cases  recommended  seeds  to  be 
sown  in  drills  drawn  from  S  to  12  inches  apart,  in 
prcforonce  to  sowing  broadcast,  because  the  weeds 
can  be  more  easily  destroyed  by  means  of  a  small 
hoe  ;  and  which,  properly  used,  greatly  promotes  the 
growth  of  young  plants. 


CATALOGUE,  &c. 

Artichoke. — Cijnara, 
Varieties. — There  are  two  principal  varieties  or  spe- 
cies of  ike  Garden  Artichoke  ; — the  Cynara  Scolij- 
mus  or  French  Artichoke,  and  the  Cynara  Horten- 
sis  or  Globe  Artichoke, 

It  is  a  perennial  plant,  producing  from  the  root  an- 
nually its  large  squamose  heads,  in  full  growth,  in 
England,  in  June  or  July  until  October  or  November. 
The  Globe  Artichoke,  which  produces  large  globular 
heads,  is  best  for  general  cultuve,  the  heads  being 
•considerably  larger,  and  the  eatable  parts  more  thick 
;iiid  fleshy. 

Both  sorts  may  be  raised  from  the  seed,  or  young 
tjuckers  from  the  bottom  taken  off  in  the  spring.  A 
plantation  of  Artichokes  will  continue  to  produce 
good  heads  six  or  seven  years,  and  sometimes  longer ; 
but  it  must  be  observed,  thai  if  a  supply  of  this  de- 
licious vegetable  be  required  throughout  the  season, 
a  small  plantation  should  be  made  from  suckers  every 
spring  for  a  successive  crop,  as  the  young  plants 
will  not  produce  their  heads  in  perfection  till  after 
t!ic  crops  of  the  old  standing  ones  are  over. 

The  most  likely  way  to  obtain  a  supply  of  Artichokes 
in  this  country,  is  to  sow  the  seed  in  the  latter  end  of 
March  or  early  in  April,  in  a  bed  of  good  rich  earth, 
or  it  may  be  planted  in  drills  one  inch  deep,  and 
about  twelve  inches  apart.  The  ground  should  be  light 


12  ARTICHOKE. 

and  moist,  not  such  as  is  apt  to  become  bound  up  bj 
heat,  or  that  in  consequence  of  too  large  a  proportion 
of  sand  is  Ukely  to  become  violently  hot  in  summer, 
for  this  is  extremely  injurious  to  these  plants.  After 
the  plants  are  up,  .they  should  be  kept  free  from 
weeds,  and  the  earth  often  loosened  around  them. 

At  the  approach  of  winter  they  should  be  covered 
up  with  straw,  leaves,  or  light  dry  litter,  and  they  will 
be  fit  to  transplant  in  the  following  spring. 

The  business  of  transplanting  must  be  performed 
the  latter  end  of  March  or  early  in  April.  Having 
fixed  upon  a  proper  soil  and  situation^  lay  on  it  a 
good  quantity  of  rotten  dung,  and  trench  the  ground 
one  good  spade  or  eighteen  inches  deep,  incorpora- 
ting the  manure  therewith  ;  this  being  done,  take  up 
the  plants,  and  after  shortening  their  tap  roots  a  little, 
and  dressing  their  leaves,  plant  them  with  a  dibble, 
in  rows  five  feet  asunder,  and  two  feet  plant  from 
plant  in  the  row,  leaving  part  of  their  green  tops  above 
ground,  and  the  hearts  of  the  plants  free  from  any 
earth  over  them,  and  give  each  plant  a  little  water  to 
settle  the  roots. 

The  following  method  of  planting  Artichokes  is 
practiced  in  Berkshire,  (Eng.)  the  plants  are  placed 
in  rows  three  feet  and  a  half  or  four  feet  apart  in  the 
rows,  and  so  deep  that  a  basin  may  be  formed  round 
each  plant,  as  it  is  fond  of  water,  and  in  the  fall  these 
basins  are  filled  up  by  drawing  the  earth  into  them, 
and  the  plant  is  covered  up  two  or  three  inches  by 
rounding  up  the  earth  over  them. 

Some  make  new  plantations  with  the  seeds  at  once^ 
fliis  may  be  done  by  preparing  the  ground  as  above, 
and  sowing  a  few  grains  of  good  fresh  seed  in  each 


ARTICHOKE.  13 

5pot  where  a  plant  might  be  set,  covering  them  about 
three  quarters  of  an  inch  deep,  and  then  by  marking 
each  spot  with  a  peg  stuck  in  the  ground,  the  vacant 
places  may  be  planted  with  Cauliflower,  Cabbage 
Plants,  Dwarf  Beans,  Lettuce,  &c.,  taking  care  to 
keep  the  plants  at  a  sufHcient  distance  from  the  young 
Artichokes. 

The  Winter  dressing  of  Artichokes  is  an  importan*: 
operation ;  on  it  depends  much  of  their  future  suc- 
cess. This  should  not  be  given  them  as  long  as  tho 
season  continues  mild,  that  they  may  have  all  possi- 
ble advantage  of  growth,  and  be  gradually  inured  to 
fthe  increasing  cold  weather;  but  it  should  not  be  de- 
ferred to  the  setting  in  of  hard  frost,  lest  the  entire 
work  be  lost. 

In  the  first  place,  cut  all  the  large  leaves  close  to 
the  ground,  leaving-  the  small  ones  which  rise  from 
the  hearts  of  the  plants  ;  after  this,  line  and  mark 
out  a  trench  in  the  middle,  betvv^een  each  row,  Ironi 
fourteen  to  sixteen  inches  wide,  presuming  that  the 
i-ows  are  five  feet  apart,  as  directed.  Then  lightly 
dig  the  surface  of  the  beds  from  trench  to  trench,  bu- 
rying the  weeds,  and  as  you  proceed,  gather  th<> 
earth  round  the  crowns  of  the  plants  to  the  height  of 
about  six  inches,  placing  it  in  gently  between  the 
young  rising  leaves,  without  burying  them  entirely 
yndcr  it ;  this  done,  dig  the  trenches  one  spade  deep, 
and  distribute  the  earth  equally  between  and  on 
each  side  of  the  plants,  so  as  to  level  the  ridges,  giv- 
ing them  at  the  same  time  a  neat  rounding  form  ;  fin- 
ish by  casting  up  with  a  shovel  the  loose  earth  out  of 
the  bottom  of  the  trenches  evenly  over  the  ridges,  in 
^Drder  that  the  water  occasioned  by  heavy  rains,  &c., 
2 


14  ARTICHOKE. 

may  immediately  run  off;  on  which  account  the 
trenches  ought  to  have  a  gentle  declivity,  as  the  lodge- 
ment of  water  about  the  roots  in  Winter  is  the  great- 
est evil  and  danger  they  have  to  encounter,  even 
greater  than  the  most  severe  frosts  that  we  are  sub- 
ject to. 

The  beds  are  to  remain  so,  until  there  is  an  ap- 
pearance of  hard  frost,  when  they  should  be  cover- 
ed with  light  dry  litter,  straw,  leaves  of  trees  or  the 
like,  the  better  to  preserve  the  crowns  and  roots  from 
its  rigour.  In  this  manner,  the  roots  will  remain  in 
perfect  safety  all  the  winter.  As  soon  as  the  very 
severe  frosts  are  over,  the  beds  must  be  uncovered, 
and  when  you  perceive  the  young  shoots  begin  to 
appear  above  ground,  or  rather  one  or  two  inches  up, 
then,  and  not  before,  proceed  to  levelling  down  the 
beds  into  the  alleys  or  trenches,  rounding  them  in  a 
neat  manner  ;  then  dig  and  loosen  alLthe  earth  round 
the  plants;  at  the  same  time,  examine  the  number  of 
shoots  arisinor  on  each  stool  or  root,  selecting  three 
of  the  strongest  and  healthiest  looking  on  every  stool 
to  remain  ;  all  ab'  >ve  that  number  are  to  be  slipped  off 
close  to  the  roots  with  the  hand,  unless  you  want  such 
to  make  new  plantations  with,  in  which  case,  any  extra 
number  for  that  purpose  are  to  remain  on  the  mother 
plants,  until  they  are  about  eight  or  ten  inches  high 
from  their  roots,  or  junction  with  the  old  plants,  when 
they  are  to  be  slipped  ofFand  planted  in  a  bed  prepa- 
red in  the  same  manner  as  directed  for  the  young 
plants,  taking  care  at  the  same  time  to  close  the 
<;arth  about  the  crowns  of  the  roots,  and  drawing  it  a 
little  up  to  the  remaining  suckers. 


ASPARAGUS.  15 

Observe,  the  Spring  dressing  is  to  be  given  when 
the  plants  are  in  the  above  described  state,  whether 
that  happens  in  February,  March,  or  April,  occasioned 
by  the  difference  of  climate,  or  the  earliness  or  late- 
ness of  the  Spring. 

The  gardeners,  near  London,  generally  take  off  the 
side  suckers,  or  small  Artichokes,  when  they  are 
about  the  size  of  a  hen's  egg.  These  meet  with  a 
ready  sale  in  the  markets,  and  the  principal  heads 
that  are  left  are  always  larger  and  handsomer.  The 
maturity  of  a  full  grown  Artichoke  is  apparent  by  the 
opening  of  the  scales  ;  and  it  should  always  be  cut 
off  before  the  flower  appears  in  the  centre  ;  the  stem 
should  be  cut  close  to  the  grodnd  at  the  same  time. 

When  year  Artichoke  plantations  want  manure,  lay 
on  a  coat  of  old  rotten  dung,  previous  to  the  digging 
of  the  trenches  in  November,  and  cover  it  over  with 
the  earth  as  you  ihrow  it  up  ;  in  the  spring  following, 
dig  it  in. 


»^9 


Asparagus. — Officinalis. 

Varieties. — Gravesend — Baltersea — Large     While 
Reading. 

Asparagus  plants  may  be  raised  by  sowing  the 
seeds  in  the  Fall  as  soon  as  ripe,  or  in  March, 
and  the  early  part  of  April.  It  requires  some  of  the 
best  ground  in  a  garden.  The  seed  may  be  sown 
in  drills,  ten  or  twelve  inches  assunder,  and  covered 
half  an   inch  with  light  earth.     When  the  plants 


16 


ASPARAGUS. 


are  up  they  will  needacareful  hoeing,  and  they  should 
afterwards  be  kept  free  from  weeds. 

The  seed  sown  in  the  Fall  generally  makes  the 
strongest  plants,  and  will  be  fit  to  transplant  into 
beds  when  tliey  are  a  year  old. 

A  plantation  of  Asparagus,  if  the  beds  are  properly 
dressed  every  year,  will  continue  to  produce  good 
buds  for  twenty  years  or  more. 

New  plantations  of  Asparagus  may  be  made  in  the 
juonths  of  March  and  April.  The  ground  for  the 
bed  must  not  be  wet,  nor  too  strong  or  stubborn,  but 
such  as  is  moderately  light  and  pliable,  so  as  it  will 
readily  fall  to  pieces  in  digging  or  raking,  and  in  a 
situation  that  enjoys  the  full  Sun.  It  should  have  a 
large  supply  of  good  rotten  dung  three  or  four  inches 
thick,  and  then  be  regularly  trenched  two  spades 
deep,  and  the  dung  buried  equally  in  each  trench, 
twelve  or  fifteen  inches  below  the  surface.  When 
this  trenching  is  done,  lay  on  two  or  three  inches  of 
well  rotted  manure  all  over  the  surface,  and  dig  the 
ground  over  again,  eight  or  ten  inches  deep,  mixing 
this  top  dressing  and  incorporating  it  well  with  the 
earth.  The  ground  being  thus  prepared  and  laid 
level,  divide  it  into  beds  four  feet  and  a  half  wide, 
with  alleys  two  feet  wide  between  each  bed. 

xVt  each  corner  of  every  bed,  let  a  firm  stake  be 
dviven  into  the  ground,  to  serve  as  a  mark  for  the  al- 
leys. Four  rows  of  Asparagus  are  to  be  planted  in 
each  bed,  and  ten  or  twelve  inches  distance  to  be  al- 
lowed between  plant  and  plant  in  the  row ;  and  let 
the  outside  rows  of  each  bed,  be  eight  inches  from 


the  edge. 


ASPARAGUS.  17 

Strain  your  line  along  the  bed  eight  inches  from 
the  edge  ;  then,  with  a  spade,  cut  out  a  small  trench  or 
drill  close  to  the  line,  about  six  inches  deep,  making 
that  side  next  the  line  nearly  upright,  and  when  one 
trench  is  opened,  plant  that  before  you  open  another* 
placing  the  plants  upright  ten  or  twelve  inches  dis- 
tance in  the  row. 

The  plants  must  not  be  placed  flat  in  the  bottom  of 
the  trench,  but  nearly  upright  against  the  back  of  it, 
and  so  that  the  crown  of  the  plants  may  also  stand 
upright,  and  two  or  three  inches  below  the  surface  of 
the  ground,  spreading  their  roots  somewhat  regularly 
against  the  back  of  the  trench,  and  at  the  same  time 
drawing  a  little  earth  up  against  them  with  the  hand 
as  you  place  them,  just  to  fix  the  plants  in  their  due 
j>osition  until  the"  row  is  planted  ;  when  one  row  i.> 
thus  placed,  with  a  rake  draw  the  earth  into  the 
trench,  over  the  plants,  and  then  proceed  to  open  an- 
other drill  or  trench  as  before  directed  ;  and  fill  ami 
cover  it  in  the  same  manner,  and  so  on  till  the  whole 
is  planted  ;  then  let  the  surface  of  the  beds  be  rakefi 
smooth  and  cleared  from  stones. 

Some  make  new  plantations  with  the  seeds  at  once: 
this  may  be  done  by  preparing  the  ground  as  before 
directed,  and  planting  a  few  grains  of  seed  in  each 
place  allotted  for  a  plant  ;  they  should  be  afterwards 
thinned,  leaving  the  strongest  plants  to  stand  at  the 
same  distances  every  way  as  before. 

A  plantation  of  Asparagus,   thus  raised,  will  pro- 
duce  buds  fitjto  cut  the  third  Spring  after  sowing,  bdl 
will  be^  very  large  and  fine  the  fourth  year. 
2* 


18  ASPARAGUS. 

JVinter  Dressing  of  Asparagus  Beds. 

About  the  beginning  of  November,  if  the  stalks  of 
your  Asparagus  turn  yellow,  which  is  a  sign  of  their 
having  finished  their  growth  for  the  season,  cut  them 
down  close  to  the  earth,  carry  them  oft'  the  ground, 
and  clear  the  beds  carefully  from  weeds. 

Asparagus  beds  must  have  an  annual  dressing  of 
good  manure  :  lot  it  be  laid  equally  over  the  beds, 
two  or  three  inches  thick,  after  which,  stretch  a  linc^ 
and  with  a  spade  mark  out  the  alleys  from  eighteen 
inches  to  two  feet  wide,  agreeably  to  their  original 
dimensions. 

Then  dig  the  alleys  one  spade  deep,  and  spread  a 
considerable  quantity  of  the  earth  evenly  over  the 
beds  ;  observe  to  make  the  edges  of  the  beds  straight, 
full,  and  neat,  and  to  finish  your  work  in  a  becoming 
manner,  giving  a  moderate  rounding  to  the  beds,  es- 
pecially if  the  ground  be  inclined  to  wet. 

The  alleys  should  be  afterwards  filled  up  with 
leaves  or  litter  well  trampled  down,  which  would  in 
some  measure,  prevent  the  frost  from  entering  that 
way  to  the  Asparagus  roots.  The  Seedling  Aspara- 
gus should  also  have  a  slight  dressing  ;  that  is,  to 
clear  the  bed  from  weeds,  and  then  to  spread  an  inch 
-or  two  in  depth  of  dry  rotten  dung  over  it,  to  defend 
the  croAvn  of  the  plants  from  frost. 

Spring  Dressing  of  the  Beds. 
This  work  should  be  done  from  about  the  latter 
end  of  March,  to  the  middle  of  April.  For  the  pur- 
pose of  digging  or  forking  these  beds,  you  should  be 
provided  with  a  proper  fork,  having  three  short  tines, 
perfectly  flat,  and  about  an  inch  broad ;  however,  ii^ 


ASPARAGUS.  19 

want  of  such,  it  may  be  performed   with  a  small 
short  pronged  dung  fork. 

In  forking  the  beds,  be  careful  to  loosen  every 
part  to  a  moderate  depth,  but  taking  great  care  not  to 
go  too  deep  to  wound  the  crowns  of  the  roots. 

The  above  work  of  forking  these  beds  is  most  ne- 
cessary to  be  done  every  Spring,  to  improve  and  loos- 
en the  ground,  and  to  give  free  liberty  for  the  buds  to 
shoot  up. 

The  beds  being  forked,  they  must  afterwards  be 
raked  even  ;  observing,  if  you  do  not  rake  them  im- 
mediately after  they  are  forked,  to  defer  it  no  longer 
than  the  first  week  in  April,  at  which  time  a  few  Rad- 
ish seeds  may  be  scattered  over  them,  to  pull  up 
while  young. 

Asparagus  plants  will  not  produce  buds  large 
enough  to  cut  for  general  uso,  in  less  than  three  years 
from  the  time  of  planting.  But  in  the  fourth  year, 
when  the  shoots  are  three  or  four  inches  high,  they 
Avili  bear  extensive  cutting.  The  best  way  of  cut- 
ting, is  to  slip  the  knife  down  perpendicularly,  close 
to  each  shoot,  and  cut  it  off  slantingly,  about  three 
or  four  inches  within  ths  ground,  taking  care  not  to 
wound  any  young  buds  coming  up  from  the  same 
root,  for  there  are  always  several  shoots  advancirc 
jn  different  stages  of  growth. 


20  BEANS. 

Beans. — (Eng.  Dwarfs.) — Vicia  faba. 

Varieties. — Early  Mazagan — Early  Lisbon — Ear- 
ly Long  Pod — Sword  Long  Pod — Large  Windsor 
— Kentish  Windsor — Taylor^  s  Windsor — Large 
Taker — Sandwich  Dean — JMumford — Green  Genoa 
— Green  Windsor — White  Blossomed — Red  Bios- 
somed — Dwarf  Cluster — Broad  Spanish — Green 
JS^oiipareil — Turkey  Long  Pod — and  Common  Field 
or  Horse  Bean. 

The  principal  cause  of  this  garden  product  not  suc- 
ceeding well  in  this  country,  is  occasioned  by  the 
Summer  heat  overtaking  them  before  they  are  podded , 
causing  the  blossom  to  drop  off  prematurely  ;  conse- 
quently, the  crops  are  poor  and  scanty — to  obviate 
this  difficulty,  they  should  be  planted  as  early  in  the 
year  as  possible.  They  are  generally  planted  in 
England,  from  October  to  April,  for  early  crops,  and 
from  that  time  to  July,  for  late  crops.  It  sometimes 
happens  that  their  early  plantings  are  injured  by  the 
extremity  of  their  Winters,  but  they  never  miss  having 
an  average  crop. 

In  order  to  insure  success  here,  I  would  recom- 
mend those  who  are  desirous  of  obtaining  a  tolerable, 
supply  of  these  vegetables,  to  plant  them  early,  as 
it  will  be  recollected  that  they  will  be  deficient  in 
quality  as  well  as  in  quantity,  on  the  approach  of  the 
warm  weather.  If  the  ground  should  be  frozen  the 
last  week  in  January,  or  early  in  February,  they  may 
be  sown  in  boxes  of  earth  placed  in  a  light  cellar,  or 
inearth  on  the  floor,  and  afterwards  transplanted. 
If  this  is  not  done,  let  them  be  planted  as  soon 
afterwards  as  possible,  in  drills  two  or  three  inches 
deep,  and  if  it  should  happen  that  they  cannot  be 


BEANS.  21 

planted  by  the  middle  of  February  in  the  place  where 
they  are  to  stand,  let  some  of  the  early  kinds  be  sown 
pretty  thick  in  a  bed  of  light  earth  ;  and  when  come 
up  to  an  inch  or  two  in  height,  transplant  them  iri 
rows  from  thirty  inches  to  three  feet  asunder,  accord- 
ing to  the  size  and  kind,  and  the  Beans  two  or  three 
inches  distant  in  the  rows.  Th«  method  is  this  :  dig 
a  bed  about  three  or  four  feet  broad,  of  good  earth, 
in  a  warm  situation ;  this  being  done,  draw  broad 
drills  with  a  small  spade,  or  common  hoe,  flatways 
across  the  bed,  and  scatter  the  Beans  pretty  thick  in 
the  drill,  and  draw  the  earth  equally  over  them  ;  and 
thus,  if  severe  frosts  should  prevail  before  they  come 
up,  or  in  their  infant  state  while  remaining  altogether 
in  the  bed,  they  can  be  readily  protected  from  frost, 
with  frames,  mats,  or  litter,  until  fit  to  transplant. 
As  soon  afterwards  as  the  weather  is  favourable,  let 
them  be  taken  up  carefully  out  of  the  seed  bed,  with 
their  full  spread  roots,  and  as  much  earth  as  will  hang 
about  them,  and  be  carefully  transplanted  as  before 
directed,  observing  to  close  the  earth  lightly  about 
every  plant.  They  will  soon  take  root  and  grow 
freely.  This  method  is  considered  by  some  as  pre- 
ferable to  the  general  method  of  planting  them  in  the 
place  where  they  are  to  stand,  and  it  is  said,  that  by 
transplanting  they  generally  bear  several  days  sooner. 
It  may  be  necessary  to  observe  that  a  strong  heavy 
soil  is  the  most  suitable,  but  they  often  do  well  in 
moderately  light  low  ground.  The  early  kinds  may 
succeed  if  planted  in  the  month  of  March,  and  it  is 
only  from  those  early  sown  that  any  tolerable  produce 
may  be  expected  in  the  United  States,  especially  in 
the  middle  and  southern  parts. 


22  BEAT?*. 

The  Mazagan  and  Lisbon  are  the  earliest,  th« 
White  Blossom  Bean  is  very  delicious,  and  boils 
much  greener  than  any  other  kind  ;  but  the  Genoa 
bears  the  heat  of  our  climates  better  than  either  of  the 
others,  and  therefore  is  the  most  suitable  for  late 
crops.  The  Long  Podded  Bean  is  very  good,  and 
bears  well ;  but  the  Windsor,  Sandwich,  Toker,  and 
Broad  Spanish  kinds,  are  more  esteemed  than  any 
other.  The  Dwarf  Cluster  Bean  is  a  great  bearer, 
never  grows  above  a  foot  or  fourteen  inches  high, 
and  may  be  planted  in  rows,  either  in  beds  or  borders, 
the  rows  to  be  about  two  feet  asunder,  and  as  this 
kind  branches  out  considerably  from  the  root,  the 
r>cans  musl  be  planted  in  single  rows,  and  five  or  six 
inches  distant  from  one  another. 

If  all  the  different  varieties  are  planted  at  one  time, 
ihev  will  come  into  bearino"  in  a  regular  succession? 
according  to  their  diflerent  degrees  of  earliness — and 
it  will  be  necessary  to  repeat  the  planlings  every 
two  weeks  from  January  to  the  latter  end  of  March. 

As  soon  as  the  Beans  are  three  or  four  inches  high, 
tliey  will  need  a  careful  hoeing,  and  if  some  earth  be 
drawn  up  to  their  stems,  three  or  four  times  in  the 
course  of  their  growth,  it  will  greatly  refresh  and 
strengthen  them. 

When  they  arc  arrived  at  full  bloom,  and  the  lower 
nods  beginning  to  set,  the  tops  may  be  broken  off. 
If  this  be  done  at  the  proper  time,  it  will  greatly  pro- 
mote the  swelling  of  the  pods,  as  well  as  their  early 
maturity  ;  for  having  no  advancing  tops  to  nourish, 
the  whole  cflort  of  the  root  will  go  to  the  support  of 
the  fruit. 


BtANS. 


23 


Beans. — (Kidney  Dwarfs.) — Phascolus. 
Varieties. — Early  Yelloiv  Cranberry — Early  Mo- 
haivk— Early  Dwarf  Cluster— Early  Yellow  Six 
Weeks— Early  Dun  Colored  or  Quaker— Early 
China  Dwarf— Early  Black  Dwarf— Large  Whitr 
Kidney  Dwarf— White  Cranberry  Dwarf— Red 
Cranberry  Dwarf— Warrington  or  Marrow — Re- 
fugee or  Thousand  to  One — Rob  Rey — White  Cut- 
lass Bean  of  Carolina — Bonavista, 

These  kinds  of  Beans  being  all  excellent,  I  shall 
leave  my  readers  to  choose  for  themselves.  Tho 
early  kinds  will  come  to  perfection  in  from  six  to  eight 
weeks  after  planting.  Some  of  the  other  kinds  will 
keep  longer  in  bearing,  and  are  esteemed  by  some 
on  that  account.  These,  with  some  of  the  early 
kinds,  may  be  planted  in  the  months  of  May  and 
June.  If  a  regular  succession  of  young  Beans  be 
wanted  throughout  the  summer,  some  of  the  early 
kinds  should  be  planted  every  two  weeks  from  the 
last  week  in  April  until  the  beginning  of  August. 
These  Beans  require  light  rich  soil,  and  may  be 
planted  in  hills  (three  or  four  in  a  hill)  or  drills  about 
two  inches  deep,  and  the  Beans  two  or  three  inches 
from  each  other ;  the  drills  may  be  from  two  and  a 
half  to  three  feet  apart.  (The  Refugees  are  best  plant- 
ed in  hills.)  As  the  Beans  progress  in  growth, let  them 
be  carefully  hoed,  drawing  the  earth  up  to  their  stems 
at  the  same  time,  and  they  will  be  soon  fit  for  thr 
table. 

The  Bonavista  is  a  new  Dwarf  Bean,  by  inau^v 
considered  equal  to  Lima  Beans.  They  grow  nearly 
two  feet  high. 


S4  BEANS. 


Beaxs. —  (Pole  or  Running.) — Phaseolus  Limensis, 
Varieties. — Large  While    Lima — Sieva   or  Caro- 
lina. 

Phaseolus. 
Varieties. — Scarlet   Runners — While   Dutch  Rtm- 

rurs — Dutch  Case  Knije  or  Princess—Red  Cran- 

brrry —  White  Cranberry. 

The  Beans  of  the  latter  species  may  be  planted 
the  latter  end  of  April,  and  in  May  ani  June,  either 
in  hills  three  feet  distant  from  each  other,  or  in  drills 
about  two  inches  deep.  The  poles  should  be  eight 
or  ten  feet  long,  and  may  be  fixed  in  the  ground  before 
t\\9  Beans  are  planted. 

The  Carolina  and  Lima  Beans  should  not  be 
planted  in  the  open  ground  until  the  second  week  in 
May,  unless  the  season  be  very  favourable,  and  the 
ground  warm.  As  these  Beans  are  apt  to  get  injured 
by  cold  and  damp  weather,  let  six  or  eight  Beans  be 
planted  half  an  inch  deep  round  each  pole,  and  after- 
wards thinned,  leaving  three  or  four  good  plants  in  a 
hill,  which  hills  should  be  from  four  to  five  feet  dis- 
tance from  each  other  evei'y  way. 

The  soil  for  running  Beans  should  be  the  same  as 
tor  the  Dwarf  kinds,  except  the  Lima,  which  requires 
richer  ground  than  any  of  the  other  sorts. 

If  any  of  these  Beans  are  wanted  earlier  than  the 
ordinary  season,  they  may  be  planted  in  flower  pots 
in  April,  and  placed  in  a  green  house  or  garden  frame, 
and  being  transplanted  in  May  with  the  balls  of  earth 
entire,  will  come  into  bearing  10  or  14  days  earlier 
than  those  which  are  planted  in  the  natural  gronnd. 


BEET.  25 

Beet. — Beta. 
Varieties. — Early    Blood    Turnip    rooted — Earlij 
While  Scarcity — Early  Dwarf  Blood — Long  Blood 
Red — Yelloio  Turnip    rooted — Mangel    Wurzel — • 
Sir  John  Sinclair's — French  Sugar  or  Jlmher, 

A  small  bed  of  the  earliest  and  most  esteemed  kinds 
of  Beets  may  be  planted  in  good  rich  early  ground 
towards  the  end  of  March,  or  in  the  first  week  of 
April,  which  being  well  attended  to,  will  produce  good 
roots  in  June. 

Draw  drills  a  foot  apart,  and  from  one  to  two  inches^ 
deep ;  drop  the  seeds  along  the  drills  two  or  three 
inches  from  each  other,  and  cover  them  with  the  earth. 
When  the  plants  are  up  strong,  thin  them  to  the  dis- 
tance of  six  or  eight  inches  from  each  other  in  the 
rows.  The  ground  should  be  afterwards  hoed  deep 
round  the  plants,  and  kept  free  from  weeds. 

Beets  may  be  planted  for  general  crops  from  the 
tli'st  week  in  April  until  the  beginning  of  June,  in  rich 
mellow  ground,  and  in  case  of  failing  crops,  they  may 
produce  good  roots  in  the  Fall,  if  planted  the  last 
week  in  June. 

It  is  always  best  to  thin  them  out  early.  If  the 
tops  are  used  as  a  vegetable,  they  should  not  be 
left  too  long  for  this  purpose,  or  they  will  greatly  in-» 
jure  the  roots  of  those  that  are  to  stand.  Beds  that 
are  to  stand  through  the  summer,  should  be  kept 
clean  by  repeated  hoeings  ;  and  the  roots  intended  for 
winter  use  should  be  taken  up  in  October,  or  early 
in  November. 

3 


26  borecole  and  brussels  sprouts. 

Borecole  and  Brussels  Sprouts. 

Brassica. 

Varieties. — Green   Curled  or  Fringed  Cahhage — 

Purple     Curled — Thick    Leaved    Curled — Finehj 

Fringed — Siberianor  Scotch  Kale— Brussels  Sprouts. 

For  the  garden,  these  may  be  treated  in  every  res- 
pect as  Winter  Cabbages  • — the  seeds  may  be  sown 
about  the  middle  of  May,  and  the  plants  set  out  in  the 
month  of  July,  in  good  rich  ground.  They  are  never 
so  delicious  as  when  rendered  tender  by  smart  frosts  ; 
they  arc  very  valuable  plants  to  cultivate,  particularly 
in  the  more  Southerly  States,  as  they  will  there  be  in 
the  greatest  perfection  during  the  winter  months  ;  they 
"will  also,  if  planted  in  a  gravelly  soil,  and  in  a  shel- 
tered waim  situation,  boar  the  winters  of  the  Middle 
States  ;  and  may  be  kept  in  great  perfection  in  the 
Eastern  States,  if  taken  up  before  the  winter  frost 
sets  in  with  much  severity,  and  placed  in  trenches  up 
to  their  leaves,  and  covered  with  straw  or  other  light 
covering :  the  heads  may  be  cut  off  as  they  are  re- 
quired for  use ;  and  in  the  spring,  the  stems  being 
raised  up,  will  produce  an  abundance  of  delicious 
Greens. 

This  vegetable  is  frequently  raised  in  England  for 
cattle,  which,  on  arcount  of  its  luxuriant  growth,  is 
very  profitable  ;  the  Brussels  Sprouts  grow  there  from 
three  to  five  feet  high,  and  produce  an  abundance  of 
Greens'  in  the  winter. 


BROCOLr.  2*" 

Brocoli. — Brassica  olcracca  Italica. 

Varieties. — Earhj  Dwarf  Purple — Early  Green— ^ 
Large  Late  Purple— Dwarf  Late  Purple— Branch- 
ing Purple — Late  Green — Brown — IVhite  o; 
Cauliflower  Brocoli — Large  Purple  Cape — Gran- 
ges White  Cape  and  Sidjjhur  Cape. 

The  several  varieties  of  Brocoli  and  Cauliflower 
may  be  justly  ranked  amongst  the  greatest  luxuries 
of  the  garden.  They  need  only  be  known  in  order 
to  be  esteemed.  The  Brocoli  produces  heads,  con- 
sisting of  a  lump  of  rich  seedy  pulp,  like  the  Cauli- 
flower, only  that  some  are  of  a  green  colour,  some 
purple,  some  brown  &c.,  and  the  white  kinds  so  ex- 
actly resemble  the  true  Cauliflower  as  to  be  scarcely 
distinguished  either  in  colour  or  taste. 

Brocoli  is  quite  plentiful  throughout  England  the 
greater  part  of  the  year,  and  it  is  raised  with  as  little 
trouble  as  Cabbages  are  here.  The  mode  of  raising 
the  Purple  Cape  Brocoli  is  now  generally  understood 
in  this  part  of  America ;  but  the  cultivation  of  the 
other  kinds,  has  been  nearly  abandoned  on  account 
of  the  ill  success  attending  former  attempts  to  bring 
them  to  perfection.  In  such  of  the  Southern  States, 
where  the  winters  are  not  more  severe  than  in  Eng- 
land, they  will  stand  in  the  open  ground,  and  continue 
to  produce  their  fine  heads  from  November  to  April. 
In  the  Middle,  and  especially  in  the  Eastern  States  if 
the  seeds  of  the  late  kinds  be  sown  in  March  on  a  hot 
bed,  and  the  earlier  kinds  in  April  and  May  in  tho, 
open  ground,  and  treated  in  the  same  manner  as  Cau- 
liflower plants,  it  would  be  the  most  certain  method 
of  obtaining  large  and  early  flowers  ;  but  as  only  a 


2S  BROCOLI. 

part  of  these  crops  can  be  expected  to  come  to  per- 
fection before  the  approach  of  winter;  the  remainder 
will  have  to  be  taken  up,  laid  in  by  the  roots,  and  co- 
vered with  earth  up  to  the  lower  leaves. 

Those  who  are  desirous  of  obtaining  Brocoli  and 
Cauliflower  in  any  quantity,  so  as  to  have  all  the  dif- 
ferent varieties  in  succession,  should  have  places 
♦^reeled  similar  to  some  of  our  greenhouses,  the  back 
and  roof  may  be  made  of  refuse  lumber,  which  being 
afterwards  covered  with  fresh  stable  dung  will  keep 
out  the  frost.  The  place  allotted  for  Cape  Brocoli 
and  Cauliflower,  should  have  a  glazed  roof  to  face  the 
South — the  sashes  must  be  made  to  take  off  in  mild 
W'eather,  but  they  should  be  always  kept  shut  in 
severe  cold  weather,  and  covered  with  mats,  or 
boards,  litter,  &c.  so  effectually  as  to  keep  out  the 
frost. 

The  hardy  kinds  of  Brocoli  may  be  preserved 
without  glass,  by  having  shutters  provided  to  slide  over 
the  front  in  extreme  cold  w:eather,  which  may  be  co- 
vered over  with  fresh  stable  dung  or  other  litter.  If 
these  plants  get  frozen,  it  will  be  necessary  to  keep 
the  full  power  of  the  sun  from  coming  on  them  until 
they  be  thawed,  this  may  be  done  by  sh  king  a  little 
straw  over  the  bed  as  they  lay.  It  may  perhaps  be 
not  generally  understood  that  the  sudden  transition 
from  cold  to  heat,  is  more  destructive  to  vegetables 
than  the  cold  itself.  If  plants  of  any  kind  get  frozen, 
and  cannot  be  screened  from  the  sudden  rays  of  the 
sun,  they  should  be  well  watered  as  the  air  gets  warm, 
and  before  they  begin  to  thaw;  this  will  draw  out  the 
frost  and  may  be  the  means  of  saving  the  plants. 


CAULIFLOWER.  29 

The  proper  time  for  sowing  the  seed  of  the  Purpl 
Cape  Brocoli,  is  from  the  tenth  to  the  twentieth  e  ' 
May,  those  who  intend  to  provide  a  place  for  tht 
winter  keeping  of  the  other  kinds,  may  sow  seeds  ot 
the  most  esteemed  varieties  at  the  same  time,  or  in 
two  or  three  separate  sowings,  a  week  apart. 

When  the  plants  are  of  sufficient  size,  they  should 
be  transplanted  into  extraordinary  rich  ground,  which 
should  be  brought  previously  mto  good  condition. 
This  being  done,  plant  them  in  rows  two  feet  and  a 
half  apart,  and  two  feet  distance  in  the  rows.  As 
soon  as  they  iiave  taken  root,  give  the  ground  a  deep 
hoeing,  and  repeat  this  two  or  three  times  in  the 
course  of  their  growth,  drawing  some  earth  around 
their  stems  at  the  same  time. 

Such  plants  as  are  not  likely  to  produce  heads  in 
the  open  ground,  should  be  taken  up  early  in  October, 
and  laid  in  carefully  close,  together  with  the  roots 
and  stems  covered  with  earth  as  far  up  as  the  lower 
leaves.  Those  who  have  not  a  place  provided,  may 
keep  a  few  in  a  light  cellar,  but  every  gardener  and 
private  gentleman  should  have  suitable  places  erected 
for  a  vegetable  that  yields  such  a  delicious  repast,  at 
a  time  when  other  luxuries  of  the  garden  are  compa- 
ratively out  of  our  reach. 


Cauliflower — Brassica  oleracea  hotrijies. 

Varieties. — Earhj — Late, 

This  is  a  first  rate  vegetable  ;  to  obtain  which,  great 
uaius  must  be  taken  in  every  stage  of  its  growth,  the 
vxtremes  of  heat  and  cold  being  very  much  against 
3" 


30  CAULIFLOWER, 

it.  The  seeds  of  the  early  kinds  should  be  sown  be- 
tween the  16th  and  24th  of  September,  in  a  bed  of 
clean  rich  earth.  In  about  four  or  five  weeks  after- 
wards, the  plants  should  be  pricked  out  into  another 
bed  at  the  distance  of  four  inches  from  each  other 
every  way;  this  bed  should  be  encompassed  witli 
garden  frames, covered  with  glazed  sashes,  and  boards; 
or  shutters  ;  the  plants  should  be  watered  and  shaded 
a  few  days  till  they  have  taken  root,  they  will  after- 
wards require  light  and  air  every  mild  day  throughout 
the  winter,  but  the  outsides  of  the  frames  must  be  so 
lined  and  secured,  and  the  tops  of  the  beds  so  covered 
as  to  keep  out  all  frost. 

They  should  be  well  attended  to  until  the  time  of 
transplanting  in  the  spring,  and  those  who  have  not 
iiand  or  bell  glasses  so  as  to  enable  them  to  set 
some  out  by  the  latter  end  of  March,  should  have  a 
frame  ready  about  the  last  week  in  February,  in  order 
that  they  may  be  transplanted  to  the  distance  of  eight 
or  nine  inches  apart ;  this  would  prevent  them  from 
buttoning  or  growing  up  weak ;  if  this  be  not  done 
some  of  the  strongest  plants  should  be  taken  out  of 
the  bed  and  planted  in  flower  pots,  which  may  be  af- 
terwards placed  in  a  frame  or  greenhouse  until  the 
weather  be  warm  and  settled,  which  maybe  expected 
soon  after  the  middle  of  April.  They  should  be  then 
turned  out  with  ihe  bails  of  earth  entire,  and  planted 
in  abed  of  the  richest  earth  in  the  gaiden,  at  the  dis- 
tance of  two  feet  and  a  half  from  each  other  every 
way  ;  the  residue  may  be  taken  up  from  the  frame  the 
last  week  in  April,  or  earlier  if  the  season  proves 
mild,  by  means  of  a  garden  trowel  and  planted  as 
above.     The  plants  should  be  afterwards  well  at- 


CAULIFLOWER.  31 

tended  to  by  hoeing  the  ground  deep  around  them, 
and  bringing  the  earth  gradually  up  to  the  stems,  so 
as  to  push  them  forward  before  the  approach  of  warm 
weather. 

The  Fall  plants  are  generally  allowed  to  succeed 
best,  but  good  Cauliflowers  are  sometimes  produced 
from  seed  sown  in  a  hot  bed  towards  the  end  of  Jan- 
uary, or  early  in  February.  Great  pains  must  be 
taken  to  have  the  bed  in  good  condition  to  receive 
the  seed  ;  when  the  plants  are  up,  they  must  have  air 
every  mild  day,  and  as  they  progress  in  growth,  they 
should  have  as  much  air  as  possible  consistent  with 
their  preservation,  but  the  be  iS  must  be  kept  covered 
up  every  night  as  long  as  there  is  any  danger  of  frost. 
When  the  plants  are  three  or  four  inches  high,  they 
must  be  pricked  out  three  or  four  inches  apart  into 
another  bed,  and  by  the  latter  end  of  April  they  may 
be  transplanted  into  the  open  ground,  and  treated  in 
every  respect  the  same  as  the  other.  These  plants 
if  well  managed,  will  succeed  very  well,  and  those 
that  do  not  flower  by  June,  may  make  good  heads  in 
the  Full. 

In  the  early  part  of  April,  Caaliflower  seeds  may 
be  sown  in  the  open  ground,  the  plants  should  be 
pricked  out  in  May,  and  transplanted  into  good 
ground  early  m  June  to  flower  in  the  Fall :  those  that 
are  not  likely  to  flower  by  the  last  of  October,  should 
be  taken  up  and  provided  for  in  the  manner  recom- 
mended for  the  Cape  Brocoli. 

It  will  be  beneficial  in  the  raising  of  Cauliflowers 
to  defend  them  Irom  the  north,  west  winds,  by  hedges 
made  of  reeds,  or  pales  thatched  with  straw. 


32  CABBAGE. 

Cabbage. — Brassica  Oleracea, 

Varieties. — Early  York — Earbj  Dutch — KnighVs 
Early  Dwarf — Early  Salisbw^  Dwarf — Early 
Emperor — EarUf  Penton — Early  JVellington — 
Early  Sugar-loaf — Early  London  Batte.rsea — 
Early  Heart-shaped — Early  Imperial — Large 
Late  Di'wn-head — Large  Sugar-loaf — Large  Late 
Battersea — Large  Bergen  or  Grf.at  American — 
Green  Glazed — Large  Scotch^  for  Cattle — Red 
Dutch,  for  Pickling — Green  Globe  Savoy — Yelloio 
Savoy — Turnip    Rooted. 

The  early  kinds  ot  spring  Cabbage  may  be  rais- 
ed in  varivous  ways.  Some  sow  the  seeds  between 
the  10th  and  24th  of  September,  pricked  out  and 
managed  the  same  as  Cauliflower  plants,  only  that 
ihey  are  more  hardy,  and  may  be  kept  through  the 
winter  without  Glazed  Sashes.  Some  prefer  sow- 
ing the  seeds  in  a  Cold-bed,  covered  by  a  garden 
:Vame,  and  wit'\  sashes;  If  this  frame  be  placed  on 
:i  warm  border,  and  kept  free  from  frost,  and  the  seed 
of  the  early  kinds  sown  the  latter  end  of  January  or 
oarly  in  February,  these  plants  will  be  better  than 
those  raised  in  the  Fall  ;  as  they  will  not  be  so  liable 
to  run  to  seed,  and  they  will  be  more  hardy  than  those 
raised  on  hot  beds  in  the  spring. 

The  Gardeners  abouc  New-York  sow  their  seed  on 
liot-beds  covered  with  glass  frames,  the  last  week  in 
February,  or  early  in  March ;  the  plants  will  be  fit 
Tfi  transplant  about  the  middle  of  April,  and  should 
l»<^  set  out  in  good  ground  from  sixteen  inches  to  two 
M^pt  apart,  according  to  the.  size  and  kind.  These, 
i^y  being  hoed  often,  will  produce  good  Cabbages  in 


CABBAGE.  33 

June.  If  seeds  of  the  large  early  kinds  be  sown  in 
a  warm  border  early  in  April,  they  will  produce  plants 
fit  to  transplant  in  May,  and  will  make  good  Cabbages 
for  Summer  use. 

The  seeds  of  Savoys  and  late  Cabbage  in  gene- 
ral, may  be  sown  at  two  or  three  different  times,  be- 
tween the  10th  and  25th  of  May,  in  fresh  rich  ground 
free  from  weeds  ;  the  young  plants  will  require  to  be 
watched  at  this  season  of  the  year,  and  if  they  are  at- 
tacked by  insects,  recourse  must  be  had  to  the  ingre- 
dients recommended  in  tlie  general  directions,  these, 
if  used  every  evening  until  the  plants  get  strong,  will 
bring  them  forwanl  for  transplantmg  in  the  second  or 
third  week  in  July. 

The  Bergen  and  other  large  kinds  should  be 
planted  in  rows  at  least  thirty  inches  asunder,  and 
the  plants  about  two  feet  apart  in  the  rows ;  the  Sa- 
voys and  smaller  sorts  may  be  placed  from  four  to 
to  six  inches  nearer  every  way.  Cabbages  succeed 
best  in  a  fresh  rich  soil,  and  the  ground  should  be 
deeply  hoed  at  least  three  times  during  their  growth. 

The  Brassica  rapa^  or  Turnip  Cabbage  produces 
its  bulb  or  protuberance,  on  the  stems  above  ground, 
immediately  under  the  leaves.  It  is  eatable  when 
young,  or  about  the  size  of  a  garden  turnip. 

The  seeds  may  be  sown  in  April  or  May,  and  the 
plants  afterwards  treated  the  same  as  Cabbages,  only 
that  in  earthing  up  the  plants  you  must  be  careful  not 
lo  cover  the  globular  part. 

They  are  much  more  hardy  than  Turnips,  and  in 
England  the  bulbs  often  grow  to  upwards  of  twenty 
inches  in  circumference,  and  weigh  from  ten  to  twelve 
pounds.     They  arc   cultivated  for  the  feeding  of 


34  CABBAGE. 

COWS  and  sheep,  as  well  as  foi*  table  use  ;  in  either 
case  they  treat  them  as  they  do  Cabbages,  or  sow 
them  like  Turnips,  and  afterwards  hoe  them  out  to 
proper  distances 

Ihe  Brassica  JS^ajJO,  or  Turnip  rooted  Cabbage, 
has  an  oblong  thick  root  in  the  form  of  a  winter 
radish  ;  it  is  extremely  hardy,  and  will  survive  very 
hard  frosts  ;  the  seeds  should  be  sown  in  strong  rich 
ground,  and  treated  in  every  respect  as  Turnips,  ob- 
serving to  thin  the  plants  with  the  hoe  to  the  distance 
of  about  sixteen  inches  apart.  Their  roots  will  be 
much  larger  and  better  when  treated  in  this  way, 
tlian  if  transplanted. 

This  vegetable  merits  attention  from  the  Farmer, 
and  is  a  valuable  article  to  cultivate  for  cattle,  as  it 
will,  with  proper  care,  produce  from  25  to  30  tons  per 
acre.  The  tops  and  sprouts  make  delicious  Greens 
in  the  spring  for  table  use- 


Co. ewort  or  CoLLARDs. — Brassica  oleracea. 

This  is  a  species  of  Cabbage  which  is  eaten  when 
young  ;  it  so  nearly  resembles  the  early  kinds  of 
Cabbage,  that  it  is  very  seldom  cultivated.  The 
English  prefer  sowing  the  seeds  of  early  heading- 
kinds  of  Cabbages,  as  a  substitute,  which  being  done 
at  different  seasons,  enables  them  to  procure  a  supply 
of  fre:<h  Greens  from  their  gardens  every  day  in  the 
year.  This  is  not  attainable  here,  on  account  of  the 
extremes  of  heat  and  cold  ;  but  Collards  would  prove 
very  valuable  and  acceptable  in  the  event  of  an  un- 
favourable season  for  fall  Cabbage. 

If  the  seeds  of  Early  York,  Early  Dutch  Dwarf,  or 


CARDOON. 


33^ 


Sugar-loaf  Cabbage  be  sown  in  June,  July  and  Au- 
gust, and  transplanted  as  they  become  fit,  into  good 
ground  from  fifteen  to  eighteen  inches  apart,  the  first 
planting  would  make  good  heads  for  fall  use  ;  and  the 
plants  of  late  sowings,  if  transplanted  in  September 
and  October  in  a  warm  border,  would  produce  tender 
sweet  eating  Greens  for  use  in  the  early  part  of  the 
Winter  ;  the  latter  plantings  may  be  placed  10  or  12 
inches  plant  from  plant.  These  could  be  easily  sheL 
tered  on  the  approach  of  severe  weather,  without 
being  taken  up. 


Cardoons. — Cynara  cardunciilus. 

The  Cardoon  Artichoke  is  much  cultivated  in  Eu- 
rope for  Culinary  purposes,  such  as  for  salads,  soups, 
stewings,  &c. 

The  stems  of  the  leaves  being  thick  and  crisp,  are 
the  eatable  parts  after  being  blanched.  They  are  iu 
perfection  in  Autumn  and  Winter. 

The  seeds  may  be  sown  in  a  bed  of  rich  earth  in 
tlie  month  of  April ;  when  the  plants  are  up  strong. 
they  should  be  thinned  to  four  or  five  inches  distance, 
to  prevent  their  becoming  weak.  They  may  be 
transplanted  in  June  at  the  distance  of  four  fectfroni 
one  another  every  way  ;  observe,  before  planting,  to 
dress  their  tops  and  roots  the  same  as  Cellery.  A^ 
ihey  advance  in  growth  they  are  to  be  earthed  up  for 
blanching,  keeping  the  leaves  close  together;  this 
may  be  done  with  bass  or  matting  as  practiced  witii 
ondive  ;  they  are  afterwards  to  be  earthed  up  grndu- 
ally  from  time  to  time,  until  whitened  to  a  sufficient 
iieight.  As  winter  approaches,  Cardoons  must  be 
Uiken  up  and  laid  away  like  Cellery,  or  they  may  be 
reserved  with  sand  in  a  cellar. 


i36  CARROT. 

Carrot. — Daucus  carota. 

Varieties. — Early    Horn — Long     Orange — Blood 

Red — Lemon — JlUrinsham. 

Of  these  several  varieties  of  Carrots,  the  Early 
Horn  is  the  earliest,  but  the  Long  Orange  and  Al- 
tringhani  are  in  greater  esteem,  on  account  of  their 
bright  orange  colour,  as  well  as  for  their  great  size 
and  length.  They  grow  to  great  perfection  in  a  rich 
loamy  soil,  and  may  be  raised  in  drills  drawn  about 
one  inch  deep,  and  twelve  inches  asunder.  A  small 
bed  may  be  planted  the  latter  end  of  March,  for  an 
early  crop,  and  from  that  time  to  the  end  of  June, 
for  successive  crops. 

The  most  suitable  ground  for  the  main  crop  of 
Carrots  or  Beets,  is  that  which  may  have  been  well 
manured  in  the  Fall  for  Spinach,  and  would  require 
no  fresh  manure.  If  the  seed  be  sown  in  May,  and 
the  plants  thinned  out  to  the  distance  of  live  or  six 
inches  from  each  other,  while  young,  and  kept  hoed, 
they  would  yield  an  abundance  of  fine  roots  for  Win- 
ter and  Spring  use,  by  being  taken  up  in  the  Fall, 
and  preserved  either  in  sand  in  a  cellar,  or  in  graves 
covered  up  in  the  garden. 

Carrots  are  used  in  England  as  fodder  for  cows, 
sheeo,  oxen  and  horses.  The  seed  is  sown  brOad 
cast  and  harrowed  in ;  after  they  have  been  once 
hoed,  they  are  harrowed  again  ;  this  loosens  the  soil, 
without  hurting  the  crop,  unless  the  ground  happens 
to  be  rough,  in  which  case  they  go  over  the  land  and 
clear  the  plants  from  heaps  of  mould  tliat  may  gather 
about  them.  They  frequently  yield  upwards  of  800 
bushels  to  an  acre. 


CELERY.  37 

Celery — A'pium  graveolens. 

"'^iPviETiEs. —  White   Solid — Rote   Coloured  Solid — 

i!S*orWs  Giant  Red — Italian — Celeriae,  or  Turnip 

Rooted. 

Those  who  may  want  Celery  for  Summer  use, 
should  sow  some  seed  of  the  White  Solid  in  a  slight 
hot  bed  early  in  march,  but  as  plants  raised  in  this 
way  are  apt  to  ran  to  seed,  it  is  much  better  to  wait  a 
fortnight,  and  sow  some  in  a  warm  border.  The  seed 
for  a  general  crop  should  be  sown  the  last  week  in 
JMarch,  or  earl/ in  April,  in  low  but  rich  mellow 
ground  ;  if  it  be  sown  in  drills  half  an  inch  deep,  and 
raked  in  even,  it  will  produce  strong  plants  by  hoeing 
frequently  betwoen  the  rows. 

The  early  sown  plants  should  be  pricked  out  into 
a  nursery  bed  of  rich  earth  as  soon  as  they  are  two 
or  three  inches  long,  there  to  remain  about  a  month, 
after  which  they  will  be  fit  to  transplant  into  the 
trenches. 

Choose  for  this  purpose  a  piece  of  rich  ground,  in 
an  open  exposure  ;  mark  out  the  trenches  by  line,  10 
or  12  inches  wide,  and  allow  the  space  of  three  feet 
between  them,  which  will  be  sufficient  for  the  early 
plantations.  Dig  each  trench  a  moderate  spade 
deep,  laying  tho  dug  out  earth  equally  on  each  side, 
between  the  trenches  ;  lay  three  inches  deep  of  very 
rpttsn  dung  in  the  bottom  of  each  trench,  then  pare 
the  sides  and  dig  the  dung  and|)arings  with  an  inch 
ot  two  of  the  loose  mould  at  the  bottom,  incorporat-; 
ing  all  well  together,  and  put  in  the  plants.  Previous 
to  planting,  trim  the  tops  of  the  plants,  by  cutting  off 
the  long  straggling  leaves,  ai^d  also  the  ends  of  tbeit 
4 


38 


CELERY. 


roots.  Let  them  be  planted  with  a  dibble,  in  single 
rows,  along  the  middle  of  each  trench,  five  or  six  in- 
ches between  plant  and  plant,  as  soon  as  they  are 
planted  give  them  a  plentiful  watering,  and  let  them 
be  shaded  until  they  strike  root  and  begin  to  grow. 

The  main  crops  may  be  planted  in  the  same  way, 
but  in  trenches  four  feet  distant  from  each  other,  and 
an  inch  or  two  further  from  plant  to  plant ;  or  in  beds 
made  in  the  following  manner,  which  for  the  ease 
of  preserving  the  plants  in  winter,  will  be  found  ex- 
tremdy  convenient ,  besides  a  greater  quantity  can 
be  raised  on  a  given  piece  of  ground. 

Lay  out  the  ground  into  beds  of  four  feet  wide, 
with  alleys  between,  of  three  feet ;  dig  the  beds  « 
spade  deep,  throwing  the  earth  on  the  alleys  ;  wlieii 
done,  lay  four  or  five  inches  of  good  well  rotted  dung 
all  over  the  bottom  of  the  beds,  dig  and  incorporate 
it  with  the  loose  earth,  and  cover  the  whole  with  an 
ihch  or  two  of  earth  from  the  alleys  ;  plant  four  rows 
ih  each  bed  at  equal  distances,  and  from  six  to  eight 
inches  apart  m  the  rows  ;  after  which,  give  them  u 
jjlentlful  watering  and  shade  them. 

The  plants  must  be  hoed  occasionally  until  growu 
of  sufficient  size  for  earthing,  which  is  done  with  the 
assistance  of  boards,  by  laying  them  along  the  rows, 
to  support  the  leaves  while  you  are  putting  in  the 
earth  from  the  alleys,  and  removing  them  as  yon  pf'o- 
^rcss  in  the  business. 

The  earthing  should  never  be  done  when  the  plant?} 
dVe  wet,  as  this  is  apt  to  make  Cellery  rusty,  but 
should  be  performed  gradually  in  fine  weather  qV 
the  plants  progress  in  growth,  repeating  the  earthing 
^very  two  weeks,  at  which  time  care  should  be  taken 


CHERVIL    AND    CIIIVES.  39 

to  gather  up  all  the  leaves  neatly,  and  not  toburylhc 
hearts  of  the  plants  When  they  arc  grown  two  feet^ 
hii;h,  and  well  blanched,  they  are  fit  for  the  table.  As 
0<^lery  will  grow  three  or  fonr  feet  high  in  one  sea- 
son, it  will  be  necessary  to  delay  the  planting  of  that 
which  is  intended  for  winter  use  until  the  latter  end 
of  July,  but  the  trenches  should  always  be  got  ready 
soon  enough,  to  avoid  a  serious  drought,  which  often 
delays  the  plantings  till  too  late  in  the  season.  The 
blanching  of  Celery  for  winter  use  may  be  delayed 
until  October. 

The  Celeriac  or  Turnip  Rooted,  may  be  planted 
either  on  level  ground  or  in  shallow  drills,  the  roots 
of  it  swell  like  a  Turnip  and  may  be  preserved  in 
sand  through  the  Winter.  The  French  and  Germans 
cut  it  in  slices  and  soak  it  a  few  hours  in  vinegar ;  by 
such  simple  preparation,  it  becomes  as  mellow  as  a 
Pine  Apple  and  affords  a  delicious  and  very  nourish- 
ing repast. 

Chervil,  or  Cicely  the  Sweet — Scandix  odorata 
Cerefolium. 

Chervil  is  a  small  salad  herb  of  aromatic  property  ; 
lis  leaves  are  used  as  salads,  and  for  soup,  &c.  The 
seed  may  be  sown  early  in  the  Spring,  in  drills  half 
an  inch  deep  and  ten  or  twelve  inches  apart ;  and  ma- 
naged the  same  as  Parsley. 


Chives,  or  Cives — Allium  schcznoprasam. 
This  is  a  small  species  of  Onion,  growing  in  large 
tufts  ;  they  are  propagated  by  offsets  from  the  root, 


40  CORN  SALAD  AND  CRESS, 

and  may  be  planted  cither  in  the  Spring  or  Fall,  m 
rows  ten  or  twelve  inches  apart,  and  the  bulbs  three 
^or  four  inches  apart  in  the  rows  ;  they  will  soon  take 
root,  and  increase  very  fast  into  large  bunches  of 
bulbs. 


Corn  Salad,  or  Fetiicus. 

The  Valeriana  locusta  variety  oiitoria  grows  com- 
monly in  the  cornfields  in  England,  hence  it  is  called 
Corn  Salad,  and  from  its  being  sufficiently  hardy  to 
stand  the  Winter,  it  has  acquired  the  appellation  of 
Lambs  Lettuce,  from  its  affording  them  an  early 
pasturage.  It  is  cultivated  for  salads  for  winter  and 
early  spring  use.  The  seed  may  be  sown  in  rich 
clean  ground,  the  latter  end  of  August  or  early  in 
September,  and  the  plants  must  be  covered  with 
straw  at  the  approach  of  severe  weather. 


Cress — Lepidium, 

Tarieties. — CiirUdf  or Peppergrass-^Broad  Leaved 

Garden, 

Cress  is  also  a  small  salad  herb,  and  is  generally 
used  with  lettuce,  white  mustard  or  rape.  It  should 
be  sown  in  little  drills  very  thick,  (as  should  the  white 
jnustard  and  rape,)  and  cut  before  it  comes  into 
rough  leaf.  A  small  quantity  in  the  salad  season, 
should  be  sown  every  week  in  clean  rich  ground. 


tUCUMBER.  41 

Cucumber — Cucumis. 

Varieties. — Early  frame — Long  PrtcJdy — Shori 
Prickly — Long  Green  Turkey — Long  White  Tur- 
key— Green  Clvster—WJiite  Spined— Small  Gherkin 
or  West  India. 

The  most  suitable  kinds  of  Cucumbers  for  early 
planting  are  the  Early  Frame,  Short  Prickly,  and 
L  )ng  Prickly.  These  may  be  planted  in  the  open 
ground  the  first  week  in  May  in  hills  four  feet  apart. 
Previous  to  planting,  the  ground  should  be  prepared 
by  incorporating  a  shovel  full  of  rotten  dung  with  the 
earth  in  each  hill,  after  which  four  or  five  seeds  may 
be  planted  half  an  inch  deep.  Cucumbers  are  liable 
to  be  attacked  by  a  yellow  fly,  which  sometimes  de- 
vours all  the  young  plants  ;  these  and  other  insects 
may  be  killed  by  sowing  tobacco  dust,  soot,  or  pow- 
dered charcoal,  round  about  the  vines  when  they  first 
come  up.  After  this  be  done,  the  plants  may  be 
thinned  to  two  or  three  in  a  hill,  and  the  ground  care- 
fully hoed,  drawing  a  little  earth  round  them  at  the 
same  time.  Before  the  vines  begin  to  run,  they 
should  be  stopped  ;  this  is  done  by  pruning  off*  the 
top  of  the  first  runner  bud,  which  will  promote  a 
stocky  growth,  and  cause  them  to  put  forth  lateral 
shoots  at  the  first  and  second  joints,  to  form  fruitful 
runners  ;  and  from  these,  others  of  the  same  nature 
will  be  produced.  Cucumber  vines  should  be  kept 
fiee  from  weeds,  and  if  the  weather  proves  dry,  a 
gontle  watering  now  and  then  given  in  the  eveniftg 
will  be  of  considerable  service. 

Picklers  may  be  raised  by  planting  the  seeds  at 
any  time  ia  July.  When  the  vines  begin  to  beajr, 
4* 


42  EGG-FLANT  AND  ENDITE. 

they  should  be  looked  over  and  the  fruit  gathered  as 
last  as  it  becomes  fit,  as  the  plant  will  cease  to  bear 
much  if  the  fruit  be  permitted  to  get  yellow. 

Egg-Plant, — or  Mehngena — Solaman  Ovigemim. 

Varieties. — Purple,  (for  culinary purp)ses)—^Whitef 
{ornamental) 

The  seed  of  the  Purple  Egg-Plant  must  be  sowft 
in  a  hot-bed  about  the  first  of  March,  and  the  sashe? 
kept  down  close  until  the  plants  come  up,  after  which 
a  little  air  may  be  given  in  the  heat  of  <he  day.  To- 
wards the  middle  of  May,  the  plants  should  be  set 
out  from  twenty-four  to  thirty  inches  apart,  in  a  rich 
warm  piece  of  ground,  and  if  kept  clean,  and  a  little 
earth  drawn  up  to  their  stems  when  about  a  foot  high, 
they  will  produce  plenty  of  fruit. 

The  plants  of  the  white  kind  may  be  raised  in  the 
fcwime  manner,  and  transplanted  into  pots  in  May,  or 
if  some  of  the  seed  be  sown  in  a  warm  place  the  first 
week  in  May  they  will  come  to  perfection  in  course 
of  the  summer. 


Endive,  or  Succort. — Cichorium  endiva. 

Varieties. — Grem  Curled — Whitt   Curled — Broad 
Leaved  Batavian, 

The  proper  kind  of  Endive  for  early  sowing,  is  the 
Oreen  Curled,  a  small  quantity  of  this  may  be  sown 
at  different  times  in  April,  May,  and  June,  for  those 
who  would  have  it  early.  These  crops  will  be  very 
apt  to  run  to  seed,  for  this  reason  it  .vill  be  best  to 
delay  the  sowing  of  seeds  for  general  crops  until 
July.    If  a  small  quantity-of  each  kind  of  seed  be 


G'ARDEN  BURNET.  4df 

sown  two  or  three  times  in  this  month,  they  will  pro- 
duce a  plentiful  supply  for  use  in  the  fall  and  early 
part  of  the  winter.  When  the  plants  are  three  or  four 
inches  high,  they  should  be  transplanted  into  good 
ground,  to  the  distance  of  a  foot  from  each  other, 
and  immediately  watered  ;  or  if  they  are  set  out  iu 
cloudy  or  wet  weather,  it  will  save  this  trouble.  The 
plants  will  require  to  be  hoed  and  attended  to  in  the 
same  manner  as  Lettuce,  until  grown  to  a  moderate 
size,  when  they  must  be  blanched.  Select  the  larger 
and  full  hearted  plants  and  with  bass  or  other  strings^ 
tie  them  a  little  above  the  middle,  not  too  tight,  pre- 
viously gathering  up  the  leaves  regularly  in  the  hand.- 
This  must  be  done  when  the  leaves  are  very  dry, 
otherwise  the  plants  will  rot. 


Garden  Burnet. — Poierivm  sangtdsorba. 

The  common  Garden  Burnet  is  a  native  of  Eng- 
land, it  grows  wild  in  dry  calcareous  soils.  It  has 
fibrous  roots,  and  retains  its  leaves  throughout  the 
year,  but  the  stalks  are  annual :  it  has  long  been  cul- 
tivated as  a  choice  salad  herb.  I'ne  leaves  being  oi 
a  warm  nature,  are  also  used  in  cool  tankards,  and 
for  imparting  an  agreeable  flavour  to  wine  and  cider. 
The  seed  may  be  sown  in  drills  about  an  inch  deep 
and  twelve  inches  apart,  in  March  or  April  ;  at 
which  time,  the  roots  of  old  plants  may  be  parted 
off  and  the  slips  planted  out  separately. 


44  INDIAN  CORN  AND  LEEK. 

Indian  Corn — Zta  Mayz. 

Varieties. — Early  Golden  Sioux^— Early  Canadian 
— Early  Jefferson — Sweet  or  Sugar — Large  South- 
em  Horsetouth — Large  Flour  JVIiite — JS'onpareil 
or  Pearl  {Curious) — Mottled — Curious  JVkite. 

The  different  kinds  of  Early  Corn  intended  for 
boiling  when  young,  or  others  as  curiosities,  may  be 
slanted  in  the  garden  the  last  week  in  April,  in  hills 
four  feet  apart,  or  in  drills.  If  some  of  each  be  planted 
in  separate  beds  at  the  same  time,  it  will  come  in 
for  the  table  one  after  the  other  in  regular  succession. 
After  this,  if  any  particular  kind  be  preferred,  it  may 
be  planted  at  different  plantings  in  May  and  June. 
If  the  ground  be  poor,  mix  a  shovel  full  of  old  manure 
with  the  earth  in  each  hill  before  the  seeds  are  plant- 
ed, and  after  the  plants  are  up  strong,  scatter  a  tea- 
cup full  of  wood  ashes  around  each  hill.  This,  with  at- 
tentive hoeing  and  hilling  will  cause  it  to  produce  ears 
early.  Deep  digging  between  the  hills  is  very  bene- 
ficial when  the  corn  is  about  eighteen  inches  high. 


Leek — Allium  Porrum. 

Varieties. — Large  Scotch  or  IVelch  Flag — London. 

This  is  a  wholesome  and  useful  herb,  and  is  so 
hardy  as  to  endure  the  extremes  of  heat  and  cold 
without  injury.  The  seed  may  be  sown  in  March 
or  early  in  April,  on  a  bed  of  rich  earth,  either  broad 
cast,  or  in  drills  an  inch  deep.  If  the  ground  be 
kept  loose  and  clean,  the  plants  will  be  large 
enough  to  transplant  in  June  or  early  in  July,  and 
should  be  set  out  in  good  ground  in  rows  twelve 
inches  assunder,  and  the  plants  five  or  six  inches 


LETTUCE.  45' 

apart  in  the  rows.  They  will  grow  well  in  a  warm 
border,  which  at  this  season  is  useless  for  many  kinds 
of  vegetables.  After  the  plants  have  taken  root 
they  should  be  frequently  hoed  and  kept  free  fronv 
weeds. 

Those  w^ho  wish  to  have  leeks  blanched,  may 
plant  them  in  trenches  three  or  four  inches  deep,  and 
as  the  plants  progress  in  growth  the  earth  should  be 
drawn  into  the  trenches. 

Lettuce. — Lactitca. 

Varieties. — Early  Curled  Silesia — Large  Green 
Heady  or  Cabbage — Imperial — Hardy  Green — 
Brown  Dutch — Grand  Admiral — Madeira,  or- 
Passion — Temiisball,  or  Rest — Drumhead — Mag- 
num Bonum  Coss — Ice  Coss — White  Coss  or  loaf- 
Green  Coss. 

The  seeds  of  the  Hardy  kinds  of  Lettuce  may  be 
sown  from  the  first  to  the  middle  of  September  in 
rich  ground  free  from  weeds  ;  it  answers  very  well 
sown  with  Spinach,  and  should  be  covered  over  with 
straw  at  the  approach  of  severe  weather.  These 
plants,  if  transplanted  into  warm  borders,  or  in 
the  open  ground  ae  early  in  March  as  the  weather  per- 
mits, will  produce  fine  heads  early  in  May.  The 
best  of  the  tender  kinds  may  be  raised  early,  by  sow- 
ing the  seeds  in  hot  beds  the  first  week  in  March, 
which  being  transplanted  into  good  ground,  will  pro- 
duce fine  heads  before  the  approach  of  warm  weather. 
The  other  kinds  may  be  sown  in  warm  borders  in 
March  or  April  and  transplanted  in  May..    The  Coss^ 


*6  MELON. 

Tiettuce  requires  to  be  blanched  ;  this  is  done  by  ga- 
thering up  the  leaves  of  the  plants,  and  tying  bass 
round  them  when  grown  to  perfection. 

All  kinds  of  Lettuce  intended  for  heading,  should 
he  planted  into  g-ood  ground  twelve  inches  distant 
from  each  other  every  way  ;  the  plants  should  be 
carefully  hoed  every  other  week  during  their  growth  ; 
ihe  first  hoeing  should  be  done  in  about  two  weeks 
after  they  are  transplanted. 

If  head  Lettuce  be  required  at  other  seasons  than 
the  spring,' it  may  be  obtained  in  the  fall  by  sowing 
the  seed  in  August,  or  in  the  winter  by  means  of  a 
garden  frame  and  glazed  sashes. 

Melon. — Ciicumis  Melo. 

Varieties. — Green  Citron — JVIurraifs  Pine  Jtpple-^ 
Persian — JVutmeg — Large  Cantaleiipe — Pomegra' 
natcj  or  JShisk  Scented — Star^  (a  few  extra  kinds 
from  Europe  in  25  cent  papers.) 

f  The  Melon  is  an  exotic  plant,  growing  wild  in 
Asia.  It  is  cultivated  in  all  the  warm  countries  of 
Europe,  and  also  in  xVfrica  and  America,  where  its 
salubrious  and  cooling  fruit  is  greatly  esteemed. 
For  the  varieties  of  the  Musk  or  Canteloupe  Me- 
lons, prepare  a  piece  of  rich  ground  the  first  week  in 
May,  manure  it,  and  give  it  a  good  digging ;  then 
mark  it  out  into  squares  of  six  feet  every  way  ;  at  the 
angle  of  every  square  dig  a  hole  twelve  inches  decp< 
and  eighteen  over,  into  which  put  seven  or  eight 
inches  deep  of  old  rotten  dung,  throw  thereon  about 
four  inches  of  earth,  and  mix  the  dung  and  earth  well 


MELON.  47 

Ivith  the  spade,  after  which  draw  the  remainder  oi 
the  earth  over  the  mixture,  so  as  to  form  a  round  hil! 
about  a  foot  broad  at  top.  When  your  hills  are  all 
prepared  as  above,  plant  in  each  towards  the  centre, 
eight  or  nine  grains  of  good  melon  seed,  distant  two 
inches  from  one  another,  and  cover  them  about  hajV 
an  inch  deep.  When  the  plants  are  up  and  in  a 
state  of  forwardness,  producing  their  rough  leaves?, 
they  must  be  thinned  to  two  or  three  in  each  hil] : 
draw  earth  from  time  to  time  round  the  hills,  an^ 
as  high  about  the  roots  of  the  plants  as  the  seeij 
leaves.  As  soon  as  the  plants  spread  into  branche'^-s, 
they  should  be  stopped,  by  pinching  off  the  top  of  th^ 
lirst  runner  bud  as  directed  for  Cucumbers ;  aftei; 
which  keep  the  ground  perfectly  free  from  weeds  b  v 
frequent  hoeings. 

Those  who  wish  to  raise  Melons  in  perfection^ 
must  be  careful  to  plant  them  remote  from  an  in- 
ferior sort,  also  from  Cucumbers,  Squashes,  an>l 
Gourds  ;  as  degeneracy  will  infallibly  be  the  conse- 
quence of  inattention  to  these  particulars.  To  pre- 
vent the  ravages  of  flies  &c.  see  Cucumber. 


Water  Melon. — Cucurbita  Citruilus. 

Varieties. — Carolina  Water — Long  Island  W^fer 
— Apple  Seeded  Water, 

The  Water  Melon,  though  by  some  considere*l 
a  species  of  the  former,  is  a  distinct  genus  ot.' 
exotic  plants.  They  afford  a  very  refreshing  ai; 
tide  of  diet  in  our  warm  summers.  Dr.  Pallas,  in, 
the  accouRt  of  his  journey  to  the  Southern  proviag'ef* 
iu  Russia  iu  1793  and  94^  spejaking  of  a  QQlony  (if 


4d  MUSTARD- 

Moravians  at  Sarepta,  or  Sapa  on  tlie  river  Volga, 
says,  "  the  ingenious  inhabitants  or  this  town  brew 
a  kind  of  beer  from  their  very  abu/idant  and  cheap 
Watermelons,  with  the  addition  of  hops  -,  they  als€> 
prepare  a  conserve  or  marmalade  from  this  fruit, 
which  is  a  good  substitute  for  syrup  ct  treacle." 

In  order  to  have  Water  Melons  in  good  perfection, 
you  must  fix  upon  a  piece  of  very  nch  light  soil ; 
prepare,  sow,  and  manage  it  in  every  respect  as  is 
directed  for  the  others,  only  let  the  hills  be  nine  or 
ten  feet  distant  every  way. 

Mustard. — Sinapis,  &c. 

The  Alba  or  White  Mustard  grows  spontaneously 

in  the  fields  in  England,  it  is  also  cultivated  as  a  small 

salad,  as  well  as  for  seed.     The  seed  yields  from 

Qvery  100  pounds,  from  33  to  36  pounds  of  swett 

rpild  oil. 

The  Nigra,  or  Common  Mustard,  is  also  a  native  of 
England.  The  condiment,  called  mustard,  and  ip 
daily  use  at  our  tables,  is  prepared  from  the  seeds  ot" 
this  f^pecies?. 

The  Erysimum  is  a  genus  of  platits  comprising  tcji 
species,  four  of  which  are  natives  of  Britain. 

1.  The  Officinale: — This  species  possesses  a  warm 
and  acrid  flavour ;  and  when  cultivated  is  used  as  aTi 
early  pot  herb.  Its  seeds  taken  internally  promote 
(n?pectoration,  the  discharge  of  urine,  and  other  fluid 
strcretions.  The  juice  has  been  employed  with  on;- 
paralleled  ^snccess  in  ulcers  of  the  throat,  &c. 


NASTURTIUM  AND  OKRA.  49 

2.  The  Barbarea  or  Winter  Cress  is  used  as  a 
salad  in  spring  and  autumn  :  some  boil  them  as  Kale. 

8.  The  Ailiari  is  also  cultivated  as  a  salad.  The 
Prussians  eat  the  leaves  in  the  spring  with  salted 
meat.  In  Wales  it  is  frequently  used  as  a  frying  herb, 
and  in  England  the  leaves  are  used  with  Lettuce,  &c. 

4.  The  Cheiranthndes  is  eaten  by  horses,  cows, 
goats,  sheep  and  swine  ;  and  is  used  by  the  country 
people  for  destroying  worms. 

The  seeds  of  all  the  kinds  of  Mustard  may  be  sown 
in  clean  rich  ground  in  April  and  May  ;  and  for  a  fail 
salad  in  September,  in  shallow  drills. 

Nasturtium. 

There  are  of  the  Nasturtium  a  major  and  a  minor 
kind  ;  the  former  being  of  a  large  running  growth  i& 
the  most  productive.  The  seeds  of  the  running  kind 
should  be  sown  in  April  or  early  in  May,  in  drills 
about  an  inch  deep,  near  fences,  or  pales ;  or  trel- 
lises should  be  fixed  on  which  they  can  climb  anti 
have  support ;  for  they  will  always  be  more  prcduo* 
tive  in  this  way  than  when  suffered  to  trail  on  the 
ground.  The  dwarf  kind  may  be  planted  in  hills, 
two  or  three  seeds  in  a  hill. 


Oera. — Hibiscus  escuUntus. 

The  green  capsules  of  this  plant  are  ujsed  in  soups, 
and  its  ripe  seeds,  if  burnt  and  ground  like  co,ffee,  caft 
scarcely  be  distinguished  therefrom, 
6 


50  ON  I  ox. 

The  seed  should  be  planted  in  good  rich  ground, 
the  first  or  second  week  in  May.  Draw  drills  about 
two  inches  deep,  and  four  feet  assunder,  into  which 
drop  the  seeds  at  the  distance  of  six  or  eight  inches 
from  one  another,  or  rather  drop  two  or  three  in  each 
place,  lest  the  one  should  not  grow,  and  cover  them 
near  an  inch  in  depth,  as  they  advance  in  growth  thin 
them  out,  earth  them  up  two  or  three  times,  and  they 
will  produce  abundantly. 

OxioN. — Milium    Cepa. 

Varieteis. — White  Portugal — Yellow  Dutch — While 

Spanish Silver  Skinned Strasburgh — Large 

Deptford  Red. 

Of  the  several  varieties  of  Onions,  the  Strasburgh 
and  Large  Deptford  Bed  are  the  best  for  a  general 
crop.  The  bulbs  are  handsome,  of  firm  growth,  and 
keep  well  through  the  winter  The  White  Portugal 
and  Silver  Skinned  Onions  are  of  a  mild  taste,  and 
generally  turn  out  very  profitable  crops. 

Previous  to  sowing  onion  seed  for  a  general  crop, 
the  greund  should  be  well  prepare:!  by  digging  in 
some  of  the  oldest  and  strongest  manure  that  can  be 
got.  The  earlier  this  be  done  in  the  spring  the  better  j 
and  the  planting  should  not  be  delayed  longer  than 
the  middle  of  April.  The  seed  may  be  sown  broad 
cast,  or  in  drills  one  inch  deep  and  twelve  inches 
apart.  When  the  plants  are  up  strong  they  should  b^ 
hoed.  Those  beds  that  are  to  stand  for  a  full  crop, 
should  be  thinned  out  while  young,  to  the  distance  of 
two  or  three  inches  from  each  other  j  if  a  few  should 


ONION.  51 

be  required  for  use  after  thia,  those  can  be  taken 
which  incline  more  to  tops  than  roots,  and  if  the  beds 
be  frequently  looked  over  and  the  small  and  stalky- 
plants  taken  away  where  they  stand  thickest,  the 
remaining  bulbs  will  grow  to  a  larger  size.  The 
ground  should  be  hoed  at  leas  three  times  in  the 
early  part  of  their  growth  ;  but  if  the  season 
proves  damp,  and  weeds  vegetate  luxuriantly,  they 
must  be  removed  by  the  hand,  because,  after  the 
onions  have  begun  to  bulb,  it  would  be  improper  to 
stir  them  with  a  hoe. 

When  the  greenness  is  gone  out  of  the  tops  of 
Onions  it  is  time  to  take  them  up,  for  from  this  time 
the  fibrous  roots  decay.  After  they  are  pulled  they 
should  be  laid  out  to  dry  ;  and  when  dry  removed 
to  a  place  of  shelter. 

The  small  Onions  may  be  planted  in  the  spring  foL 
lowing  ;  even  an  Onion  which  is  partly  rotten  will 
produce  good  bulbs  if  the  seed  stems  be  taken  off  as 
soon  as  they  appear. 

The  Allium  Fistolosum  or  Welsh  Onions  are  cul- 
tivated for  spring  salad  ;  they  form  no  bulbs,  but  are 
very  hardy.  If  the  seed  be  sown  early  in  September 
in  rich  ground,  although  the  tops  may  die  down  in 
the  Winter,  yet  the  roots  will  continue  sound  and 
push  up  ne\r  leaves  early  in  the  spring. 

The  Allium  Canadensey  or  Tree  Onion,  is  propa- 
gated by  planting  the  bulbs  in  spring  or  autumn, 
either  the  root  bulbs,  or  those  produced  on  the  top  of 
the  stalks  ;  the  latter,  if  planted  in  the  Spring,  will 
produce  fine  Onions.  These  may  be  planted  in 
rows  with  a  dibble,  the  same  as  Shallots. 


52  PARSLEY  AND    PARSNIP. 

The  Potato  Onion  is  of  late  introduction  into  this 
country.  It  does  not  produce  seed  as  other  Onions, 
but  is  increased  by  the  root.  One  single  Onion  will 
produce  six  or  seven  in  a  clump  under  ground  simi- 
lar to  Potatoes. 

The  bulbs  should  be  planted  in  the  spring  from 
twelve  to  eighteen  inches  apart. 

Parsley. — t3pium   Petro^elimtm 

Varieties. — Curled,    or    Doiible — Siberian — Ham- 
burgh or  Large  rooted — Dwarf  Curled. 

ks  Parsley  seed  sown  late  in  the  season  is  apt  to 
lay  in  the  giround  some  time  before  it  vegetates,  the 
^^neral  crop  should  be  sown  by  the  early  part  of 
April,  ia  drills  an  inch  deep,  and  one  /oot  assnnder. 
After  the  plants  are  up,  let  them  be  kept  clean  by 
frequenr.  hoemgs.  In  order  to  have  Parsley  green 
through  the  winter,  the  old  leaves  should  be  picked 
off  in  September.  If  some  of  the  roots  be  taken  up 
early  m  November,  and  laid  in  a  frame  or  light  cellar, 
the  leaves  will  keep  green  a  long  time  ;  the  remain- 
der may  be  covered  up  with  straw  in  the  place  where 
it  grows. 

Parsnip. — Pastinaca  Saliva, 
Varieties — Large  Dutch,  or  Sicelling. 

Parsnip  seed  may  be  sowed  from  the  middle  of 
March  to  the  last  week  in  April,  in  drills  one  inch 
deep  and  fourteen  inches  apart;  but  as  this  vegetable 
requires  the  whole  season  to  grow  in,  the  sooner  the 


PEPPER.  0£> 

seed  is  planted  the  better.  Parsnips  grow  best  in  a 
deep  soil  manured  well  the  preceding  fall.  Sow  the 
seeds  thick  along  the  drill?,  and  rake  them  in  evenly. 
When  the  plants  are  two  or  three  inches  high,  thin 
them  to  the  distance  of  six  or  eight  inches  in  the 
rows.  They  should  be  kept  free  from  weeds  by  re- 
gular hoeings  through  the  summer  ;  and  ia  the  fall 
they  will  be  fit  for  us*. 

Pepper. — Capsicum. 

Varieties.— Long-  or  Cayenne — Tomato  or  Squash 
Shaped — Bell  or  Ox  Heart — Chen^j — Bird  or  West 
Indian. 

The  seeds  of  the  different  kinds  of  Capsicums  may 
be  sown  in  a  hot  bed  in  March  or  on  a  warm  border 
early  in  May.  The  plants  may  be  afterwards  trans- 
planted into  good  rich  ground  from  eighteen  inches 
to  two  feet  distant  from  each  other. 

Those  who  do  not  want  peppers  early  in  the  sea- 
son, may  sow  the  s«eds  in  the  open  ground  in  May^ 
in  drills  two  feet  assunder,  and  half  an  inch  deep. 
"When  the  plants  are  grovvn  an  inch  or  two  high,  thin 
them  to  the  distance  of  fifteen  or  eighteen  inchej*  in 
the  rows.  The  ground  should  be  afterwards  hoed 
deep  round  the  plants,  and  kept  free  from  weeds  by 

repeated  hoeings. 

5* 


54  PEASi 

Peas, — Pisum  saiivian, 

Yarieties. — Early  Washington  {or  May  Pea,)  growr 
to  the  height  of  2  1-2  feet— Early  double  blossomed 
frame  J  3  feet— Early  JYimble  Dick  2  1-2  feet- 
Early  Frame  2  1-2  feet— Early  Golden  Hotsur, 
3  feet— Early  Charlton,  3  feet— Early  Pe- 
tersburg 2  1-2  feet — Dwarf  Blue  Imperial,  2  feet 
— Dwarf  Blue  Prussian  2  1-2  feet — Dwarf  Proli- 
fic, or  Poor  Man^s,  or  Strawberry  1  1-2  feet — 
Dwarf  Spanish  or  Fan,  1  Joot — Dwarf  Marrow- 
fat,  3  1-2  feet — Dwarf  Sugar,  {eatable  pods)  3 
feet—Dwar'  White  Albany,  1  1-2  feet  [Field  Pea) 
— J\ew  Nonpareil,  Z  feet — Ladies  finger  Marrows 
—  Waterloo  Blues,  4  feet — Matchless  or  true  Fall 
Marrowfat,  6  feet — Large  Gray  Rouncival,  4 
feet— Dutch  Gray,  2  1-2  feet— Knights  Tall  Mar- 
rows or  Honey  Pea,  6  feet — Knights  Dwarf 
Marrows,  2  feet — Tall  Crooked  Podded  Sugar, 
6  feet,  {eatable  pods) — Dwarf  Green  Albany  I  1-2 
fett  {Field  Pea.) 

The  above  list  and  description  of  the  most  esteem- 
ed kinds  of  Peas  is  taken  from  the  Catalogue  of  the 
Messrs.  Thorbiirn  and  Son's  of  New  York.  If  they 
are  ri^^htly  described,  they  vvill  grow  to  different 
heights  according  to  soil  and  season.  This  descrip- 
tion however,  may  serve  as  a  guide  for  the  gardener 
in  planting.  The  Dwarf  Peas  requires  less  distance 
between  row  and  row,  and  shorter  sticks  than  the  tall 
kinds. 

Planting  the  early  kinds  of  Peas  should  com-f 
mence  as  soon  in  the  spring  as  the  ground  can  ht 
brought  into  good  conditioo :  all  the  other  sorts  a> 


well  as  the  early  will  answer  for  successive  crops  ; 
to  obtain  which  a  few  of  the  most  esteemed  kinds 
should  be  planted  at  the  same  time  every  two  weeks, 
from  March  until  the  end  of  May.  Persons  desirous 
of  having  Peas  throughout  the  summer  and  fall,  may 
plant  a  few  in  June,  July  and  August.  The  Peas 
should  be  then  soaked  in  soft  water  five  or  six  hours 
before  planting,  and  if  the  ground  be  dry  it  should  be 
watered  in  the  drills. 

Gardeners  practice  different  modes  of  planting 
Peas  ;  some  plant  them  in  ridges,  others  in  drills, 
s.ome  in  single  rows,  others  in  double,  some  use  sticks 
for  the  dwarf  kinds,  and  others  not ;  those  who  study 
neatness  will  have  them  all  rodded  though  the  most 
dwarfish  may  do  without. 

All  the  different  sorts  of  Peas  may  be  planted  in 
double  or  single  rows  from  four  to  six  feet  apart  ac- 
cording to  the  different  heights  they  may  be  expected 
to  grow.  If  two  drills  be  made  three  inches  deep, 
and  six  or  eight  inches  apart,  and  the  seed  dropped 
along  each  drill  moderately  thick  they  will  yield  bet- 
ter than  single  rows,  and  will  save  sticks.  When 
the  plants  are  two  or  three  inches  high  let  them  b& 
hoed,  drawing  at  the  same  time  a  little  earth  up  to 
their  stems,  when  they  get  to  double  that  height  let 
them  be  hoed  again,  at  the  same  time  place  a  row  of 
sticks  in  the  middle  of  your  double  rows,  and  a  few 
shorter  and  smaller  ones  on  the  outside  of  each  row, 
to  assist  the  Peas  in  climbing  to  the  main  support. 
You  must  be  governed  as  to  the  length  of  your  sticks 
by  the  description  of  your  peas.  There  is  a  great  ad-, 
vantage  in  having  sticks  of  a  suitable  height,  to  the 
various  kinds  of  Peas  ;  the  sticks  should  not  only  be 


56  POTATOES. 

sufficiently  tall  but  also  branchy,  ihat  the  plants  may 
readily  take  hold  ;  and  they  should  be  prepared  fan- 
lashion,  so  that  the  side  branches  may  extend  only 
along  the  rows.  As  the  plants  progress  in  growth, 
let  them  be  repeatedly  hoed  and  earthed  up,  this  will 
promote  a  plentiful  bearing. 


Potatoes. — Solanum  Tuberosum. 

The  varieties  of  Potatoes  being  very  numerous,  it 
IS  unnecessary  for  me  to  point  out  any  particular  kinds 
some  of  the  earliest  should  however,  be  planted  first 
in  the  spring,  to  produce  young  Potatoes  in  due  sea- 
son, but  they  are  not  so  suitable  for  a  full  crop  as  the 
Jate  varieties. 

Potatoes  being  of  such  extensive  utility,  various 
expedients  have  been  contrived  with  a  view  to  find 
out  the  best  method  of  preparing  the  seed.  In 
many  parts  of  England  (where  Potatoes  equal  to  any 
in  the  world  are  raised,)  the  farmers  never  plant  Pota- 
toes whole,  they  take  the  Potatoes  as  they  come  to 
hand,  and  in  cutting  them  take  care  to  have  two  good 
oyes  in  each  set,  the  small  Potatoes  are  deprived  of 
the  sprout  or  nose  end  as  it  is  generally  considered 
that  this  is  essentially  necessary  to  the  production  of 
a  good  crop.  I  have  frequently  known  from  five  to 
600  bushels  raised  from  an  acre  with  small  Potatoes 
alone,  cut  in  this  way.  Some  prefer  planting  the  Po- 
tatoes immediately  after  they  are  cut ;  the  better  way 
is  to  get  them  cut  one  or  two  weeks  before  the  time 
of  planting,  and  to  lay  them  out  on  a  barn  or  garret 
floor  to  dry. 

Potatoes  may  be  planted  from  the  first  week  in 
A  prii  until  July,  either  in  hills  or  drills ;  the  best  way 


PUMPKINS.  67 

for  a  garden  is  to  plant  them  in  drills  four  or  five 
inches  deep,  and  about  thirty  inches  asunder,  the  sets 
may  be  dropped  six  or  eight  inches  apart  and  if  a 
small  quantity  of  combmaker's  horn  shavings  or 
sea  weed  be  used  as  a  manure  for  the  early  kinds,  it 
will  expedite  their  growth  ;  the  ground  should  be 
hoed  as  soon  as  the  plants  come  up,  and  as  they  pro- 
gress in  growth  it  will  be  proper  to  mould  or  earth 
them  up  twice. 


PoTATOE  Sweet. — Convolvulus  Batata, 

Sweet  Potatoes  may  be  raised  in  the  vicinity  of 
New  York,  by  means  of  a  hot  bed  ;  they  should  be 
planted  whole,  early  in  April  three  or  four  inches  deep 
and  about  the  same  distance  apart.  In  about  a 
month  they  will  throw  up  sprouts.  When  these  are 
three  inches  above  ground,  part  them  off  from  the 
Potatoe,  which  if  suffered  to  remain  will  produce 
more  sprouts  for  a  successive  planting ;  transplant 
them  into  rich  ground  in  rows  four  feet  apart  and  the 
plants  about  a  foot  apart,  in  the  rows.  Keep  them 
clear  of  weeds  until  the  vines  begin  to  cover  the 
ground,  after  which  they  will  grow  freely. 

Pumpkins.— CMcm'6//a  pepo. 

Vari?:ties. — Large     Cheese — Connecticut  Field — 

Finest  Yellow  Family — JVIammoth. 

Pumpkins  are  planted  in  hills  which  require  to  be 

eight  or  ten  feet  apart,  two  or  three  plants  will  be 

sufficient  in  each ;  they  are  not  so  tenacious  of  a 

particular  soil  as  either  Melons  or  Cucumbers,  but 


.>8  PATIENCE    DOCK    AND    RADISH. 

will  grow  freely  in  any  dry  and  tolerably  rich  ground  : 
the  seed  may  b©  planted  early  in  May  in  the  open 
ground,  and  should  be  kept  constantly  clean  and  free 
from  weeds. 

When  you  intend  to  cultivate  either  Melons,  Cu- 
cumbers, Squashes,  Pumpkins,  or  the  like  kinds,  on 
an  extensive  scale,  you  can  prepare  the  ground  with 
the  plough,  v/hich  will  save  much  labour ;  and  also, 
after^N  ards  as  the  weeds  advance,  plough  and  harrow 
between  the  plants  till  they  begin  to  run,  after  which, 
rhe  hoe  must  be  used. 


Patience  dock. — Rumex  Paiienlia. 
The  Rumex  Patientia  is  perennial ;  the  leaves  are 
large,  long  and  succulent,  and  are  by  some  very  much 
•esteemed.  The  plant  may  be  propagated  by  offsets 
from  the  root,  taken  off  in  the  spring,  or  late  autumn 
months,  and  planted  in  rows  eighteen  inches  assun- 
der,  and  eight  inches  from  one  another  in  the  rows. 
If  the  seed  be  sown  in  October  or  November,  it  will 
rise  freely  in  the  spring,  or  it  may  be  planted  in 
March  or  April,  in  drills  one  inch  and  a  half  deep, 
and  eighteen  inches  apart,  and  afterwards  thinned  to 
the  proper  distance. 

Hadisii. — Raphanus. 

Varieties. — Early  Frame — Early  Scarlet — Short 
Top — Long  Salmon — Purple  Short  Top — Long 
/*  hile  Summer f  or  JVaples — Cherry  or  Scarlet  Tur-^ 
nip  rooted — Violet  coloured  Turnips- Wliite  Tur- 
nip rooted — Black,  Fall  or  Spanish. 
Those  who  are  desirous  of  having  good  Radishes 

early  in  the  spring,  should  have  a  warm  border  pre- 


ROCAMBOLE.  6$ 

pared  in  the  very  best  manner,  so  as  to  be  ready  tc* 
sow  some  of  the  short  top  scarlet  by  the  middle  of 
March.  If  the  ground  should  not  be  in  good  condi- 
jtion  to  receive  the  seed  at  this  time,  let  it  be  delayed 
a  few  days  ;  and  by  the  first  of  April  take  care  to 
have  another  bed  prepared  in  the  open  ground,  by 
digging  in  some  good  strong  manure.  The  seed 
may  bo  sown  broadcast,  and  raked  evenly  in.  If 
you  wish  to  have  Radishes  in  regular  succession,  sow 
seeds  of  the  most  esteemed  kinds  every  two  weeks 
Until  the  middle  of  May  :  if  any  Ijwg.sown  after  this,  ii 
should  be  the  White  Turnip  or  Black  Spanish,  these 
will  endure  the  heat  better  than  the  others,  and  may 
be  sown  in  drills  in  small  quantities  throughout  the 
summer,  until  the  latter  end  of  August,  when  the 
other  kinds  may  be  sown  in  regular  succession  until 
the  first  of  October. 


RocAMBOLE.^ — Allium  Scorodoprasum, 

This  and  the  Allium  Sativum  or  Common  Garlick, 

is  raised  in  some  gardens.     Many  people  consider 

the  Rocambole  to  be  of  a  milder  and  better  flavour, 

but  the  bulbs  are  not  so  large  as  those  of  the  Uarlick. 

This  is  a  very  hardy  plant,  and  will  grow  in  almost 

every  soil  or  situation.     It  is  propogated  either  by 

j  the  roots  or  seeds,  the  former  ought  to  be  separatetl 

and  planted,  at  the  same  time,  and  in  the  same  man- 

'   ner  as  Shallots. 

When  raised  from  seed,  they  may  be  sown  in  drilh? 
either  shortly  after  the  seeds  are  ripe,  or  in  the  suc- 
ceeding spring  ;  they  require  only  to  be  kept  clear  of 
weeds  ;  and,  in  the  following  autumn,  may  be  takeji 
up,  the  bulbs  parted,  and  planted  as  before. 


^0  RHUBARB. 

Rhubarb. — Rheum. 

Rhubarb  is  a  genus  of  exotic  plants,  compriz- 
ing seven  specks,  of  which  the  following  are  the 
principal : — 

1.  The  Rhuponticum  or  Common  Rhubarb,  a 
native  of  Thrace  and  Syria,  which  has  long  been 
cultivated  in  British  gardens  for  the  footstalks  of  the 
leaves,  that  are  frequently  used  in  pies  and  tarts. 

2.  The  Rheum  Undulatiim  is  also  cultivated  for  the 
^same  use. 

3.  The  Palmatum  or  True  Officinale  Rhubarb,  is 
a  native  of  China  and  the  East  Indies,  whence  its 
culture  has  been  introduced  into  Europe  ;  it  produces 
a  thick  fleshy  root,  externally  yellowish  brown,  but 
internally  of  a  bright  yellow  colour  streaked  with  red 
veins.  It  grows  to  good  perfection  in  Scotland  as 
far  North  as  Perthshire,  (Lat.  56  ;)  also  in  England, 
Turkey,  and  various  other  parts  of  Europe.  When 
the  importance  of  this  root  is  considered  as  a  medi- 
cine, it  is  a  matter  of  astonishment  that  it  has  not  been 
more  generally  introduced  into  the  United  States. 

The  several  kinds  of  Rhubarb  may  be  propagatexl 
by  offsets,  taken  from  the  roots  early  in  the  spring ; 
or  from  seed  sown  late  in  the  fall,  or  in  March  an^ 
the  early  part  of  April.  The  indispensible  points  ta 
the  production  of  good  roots  of  the  pdjaaitMn,  are 
depth  and  richness  of  soil,  which  should  be  well  pul- 
verized before  the  plants  are  set  out.  Prepare  beds 
of  fine  mould  eighteen  inches  deep  ;  in  these  put  in 
the  plants  from  the  seed  bed,  ten  or  twelve  inches 
apart ;  this  must  be  done  when  they  have  attained 
the  height  of  four  or  five  inches,  and  hove  (hrotm 
out  srs  many  leaves. 


RHUBARB.  61 

The  first  season  is  the  most  critical,  and  much 
tiare  is  necessary.  If  the  weather  be  hot,  the  nur- 
sery must  be  shaded,  and  at  all  events  continually 
watered ;  for  water,  though  hurtful  to  old  plants,  is 
now  of  the  first  consequence.  Wet  weather  is  the 
most  proper  time  to  plant  in.  The  beds  must  be  kept 
free  from  weeds  through  the  summer,  and  on  the  ap- 
proach of  severe  weather,  covered  up  with  dry  litter. 
In  the  early  part  of  the  spring  this  must  be  taken  off^ 
and  in  the  beginning  of  April  the  plants  must  be  trans- 
planted into  ground  dug  and  prepared  as  directed  for 
Asparagus.  Those  who  cultivate  the  Palmatum  for 
the  sake  of  the  roots,  should  dig  the  ground  two  or 
three  spades  deep,  and  place  the  plants  four  feet  apart 
every  way  As  to  the  other  kinds  it  is  not  so  parti- 
cular, so  as  the  plants  have  room  to  grow.  In  the 
early  part  of  November,  the  leaves  being  then  de- 
cayed, the  beds  should  be  covered  with  dry  litter  ;  be- 
fore this  be  done,  a  little  earth  should  be  drawn  round 
the  crowns  of  the  plants.  If  there  be  any  danger  of 
water  lodging,  make  trenches  to  carry  it  off.  In  the 
month  of  March  the  beds  should  be  stripped  of  their 
covering,  and  the  ground  well  hoed  and  cleared  of 
weeds.  If  Rhubarb  stalks  be  required  for  us6 
early  in  the  spring,  they  may  be  obtained  by  placing 
flower  barrels  or  deep  tubs  over  some  of  the  plants, 
and  covering  them  up  with  fresh  stable  dung.  Some- 
make  the  beds  at  once  with  the  seeds  ;  the  objections 
to  this  plan  are,  first,  that  the  young  plants  cannot  be 
so  well  protected  in  the  early  part  of  their  growth  as 
those  raised  in  small  beds ;  and,  secondly,  that  the- 
ground  becomes  so  hard  in  the  course  of  a  year  as  to 
6 


62 


SALSIPT< 


prevent  the  roots  from  running  to  the  depth  they 
otherwise  would. 

The  roots  of  the  Palmatum  must  not  be  taken  up 
until  six  or  seven  years  old.  The  stalks  of  the  other 
kinds  may  be  cul  every  spring.  After  being  stripped 
of  their  outer  covering  and  cut  up  into  small  pieces, 
they  are  used  in  pies  and  tarts.  Cobbet  supposes, 
**  that  a  hundred  wagon  loads  of  Rhubarb  stalks  arc 
annually  sold  in  the  markets  of  London,  at  a  shilling 
sterling  per  bunch."  (American  Gardener.)  Rhu- 
barb makes  an  excellent  preserve  when  cut  into  small 
pieces  about  an  inch  and  a  half  long,  and  parboile<l 
with  sugar. 


^' 


/  V  ur:'^*®*^' 


S  A  LSI  F  Y. — Tragop  ogo  n  PorrifoUu  m . 

This  plant  grows  spontaneously  in  the  open  fieldf* 
in  England,  and  is  by  some  highly  valued  for  its  white 
eatable  root,  and  for  the  young  shoots  rising  in  the 
spring  from  plants  a  year  old  ;  these,  when  gathered 
while  green  and  lender,  are  good  to  boil  aud  eat  i>f 
the  manner  of  Asparagus.  Some  have  carried  thek 
fondness  for  this  plant  so  far  as  to  call  it  Vegetable 
Oyster.  They  require  the  same  kind  of  soil  and  mci=- 
nagement  as  Carrots  and  Parsnips.  The  seeds  may 
be  sown  the  latter  end  of  March,  or  early  in  April, 
an  inch  deep  in  drills  twelve  inches  apart.  When 
the  plants  are  two  or  three  inches  high,  they  should 
be  thinned  to  the  distance  of  six  inches  from  each 
other,  and  afterwards  hoed.  The  ground  should  be 
kept  clean  and  loose  round  tlie  plants,  by  repeated 
hoeings  ;  and  in  the  Autumn  they  will  be  fit  for  usr. 
The  roots  may  bo  taken  up  late  in  the  fall,  and  *y- 


SCORZONARA  ANI>  SEA-KALE.  63 

cured  in  moist  sand  from  the  air  ;  or  be  suffered  to 
remain  out,  and  dug  up  when  wanted. 

The  mode  of  cooking  recommended  by  an  Ameri- 
can author  is,  *<  to  cut  the  roots  transversely  into 
thin  pieces  ;  boil  them  in  water  or  milk  and  water ; 
when  boiled  soft,  mash  them  and  thicken  the  whole 
with  flour  to  some  degree  of  stiffness  ;  then  fry  them 
in  the  fat  of  salt  pork  or  butter  ;  they  are  a  luxury." 
Tn  England  the  tops  are  boiled  and  served  up  with 
poached  eggs. 


ScoRZONARA. — ScoTZonera  Ilispanicu, 

This  plant  has  long  been  raised  in  British  gardens 
for  culinary  purposes,  and  especially  as  an  ingre- 
dient in  soups,  on  account  of  its  palatable  and 
nourishing  roots.  Some  boil  and  eat  them  like  Car- 
rots, &c. ;  in  which  case  they  should  be  deprived  of 
their  rind,  and  immersed  in  cold  water  for  half  an 
hour,  or  they  will  be  bitter.  They  are  raised  pre- 
cisely in  the  same  manner  as  Salsify.  If  the  seed  be 
sown  in  April,  in  a  good  deep  soil,  the  roots  will  at- 
tain perfection  in  autumn,  and  continue  good  all  the 
winter.  They  last  from  three  to  four  years,  according 
to'the  quality  of  the  earth  and  care  bestowed  on  them> 
but  it  is  better  to  raise  a  few  from  seed  every  year. 


Sea-Kale. — Crambe  maritima. 

This  plant  is  found  on  the  sea  shore  in  the  Southr 
ern  parts  of  England,  where  it  grows  spontaneously. 
As  soon  as  it  appears  above  ground,  the  inhabitants 


64  SEA-KALC. 

remove  the  pebbles  or  sand  with  which  it  is  usually 
covered  to  the  depth  of  several  inches,  and  cut  ofl" 
the  young  and  tender  leaves  and  stalks,  as  yet  unex- 
panded,  and  in  a  blanched  state,  close  to  the  crown 
ofthe  root,  it  is  then  in  its  greatest  perfection.  Wheji 
the  leaves  are  full  grown  they  become  hard  and  bitter, 
and  the  plant  is  not  eatable. 

It  is  cultivated  in  private  gardens  and  for  sale  in 
various  parts  of  England.  Cultivators  have  differed 
widely  respecting  the  mode  of  treating  this  plant, 
many  conceiving  that  stones,  gravel,  and  sea  sand  arc 
essential  to  its  growth,  have  gone  to  the  expense  of 
providing  it :  but  it  has  been  discovered  that  it  will 
grow  much  more  luxuriantly  in  a  rich  sandy  loam, 
where  the  roots  can  penetrate  to  a  great  depth. 

The  seeds  of  Sea-Kale  should  be  sown  as  soon  as 
they  are  ripe.  If  fresh  seeds  cannot  be  obtained  by 
the  end  of  October,  let  them  be  sown  as  early  in  the 
spring  as  the  ground  can  he  brought  into  good  con- 
dition, in  drills  an  inch  and  a  half  deep,  and  fourteen 
or  sixteen  inches  asunder  ;  the  plants  should  be 
afterwards  thinned  out  to  the  distance  of  six  or  eight 
inches  from  each  other  in  the  rows,  and  kept  clear  of 
weeds  by  frequent  hoeings  through  the  summer. 
When  the  plants  are  a  year  old,  every  third  row  may 
be  taken  up,  and  also  every  other  plant  in  each  row, 
leaving  them  fourteen  or  sixteen  inches  apart ;  these 
may  be  transplanted  into  good  ground  prepared  as 
directed  for  Asparagus.  Plant  two  rows  in  each  bed, 
about  eighteen  inches  apart ;  the  best  way  if  to  make 
two  drills  three  inches  deep,  and  with  a  dibble  set  in 
the  plants  fifteen  or  sixteen  inches  from  each 
other ;  when  these  drills  are  filled,  ths  crowns  ol' 


SEA-K'ALS.  65 

the  plants  will  be  covered  nearly  two  incheS;  but 
they  will  soon  push  througji  the  earth.  The  plants 
left  in  the  seed  bed  may  form  a  permanent  bed,  which' 
should  be  forked  or  dug  between  the  rows  ;  previous 
to  this  being  done,  lay  on  an  inch  or  two  of  good 
rotten  manure,  and  incorporate  it  with  the  earth 
around  the  plants. 

Some  make  new  plantations  with  pieces  of  old 
•roots,  which  should  be  cut  up  in  lengths  of  about  two 
inches,  and  planted  in  March  or  April,  three  or  four 
inches  deep  at  the  distances  before  directed  for  thtt; 
plants. 

At  the  approach  of  winter,  the  leaves  will  die  away 
and  disappear.  The  beds  should  be  then  thickly 
covered  with  dung,  leaves  or  sea  weed  ;  this  will  not 
only  protect  the  plants  from  frost,  but  will  cause 
them  to  shoot  up  early  in  the  spring.  As  soon  as  the 
frost  is  out  of  the  ground,  this  may  be  taken  off,  or 
if  well  rotted,  it  may  be  mixed  up  with  the  earth : 
the  crowns  of  the  plants  should  then  be  covered  to 
the  depth  often  •r  twelve  inches  for  blanching. 

Some  blanch  it  by  heaping  on  it  sea  sand  ;  some^ 
common  sand  and  gravel  ;  and  others  with  large  gar- 
den pots  inverted,  and  placed  immediately  over  the 
plants.  If  these  pots  be  covered  up  with  fresh  horse 
dung,  it  will  forward  the  shoots  in  growth,  and  mak^ 
them  sweeter  and  more  tender. 

When  your  plants  have  been  covered  in  eilher 
method  three  or  four  weeks,  examine  them,  and  if 
you  find  that  the  stalks  have  shot  up  three  or  four 
inches,  you  may  begin  cutting ;  should  you  wait  till 
all  the  shoots  are  of  considerable  length,  yoar  crop 
v^ill  con\^  in  too  much  at  once,  for^  in  this  plcrnj^ 
6* 


66  SOKREt. 

there  is  not  that  successive  growth  which  there  is  in 
Asparagus  ;  you  may  continue  cutting  until  you  sec 
the  head  of  flowers  begin  to  form  ;  and  if  at  this  time 
vou  uncover  it  entirely,  and  let  it  proceed  to  that  state 
in  which  Brocoli  is  usually  cut,  and  use  it  as  such. 
you  will  find  it  an  excellent  substitute  ;  and  this 
greatly  enhances  the  value  of  the  plant,  as  Brocoli 
«{oes  not  stand  our  winter  frost,  and  can  only  be  had 
when  carefully  protected,  (as  recommended  under  that 
head  :)  but  this  plant  is  sufficiently  hardy  to  bear  our 
^vinter's  frost  without  much  injury.  You  are  not  to 
weaken  the  roots  too  much  by  over  cutting,  for  in 
that  case  it  would  injure  their  next  years  bearing  : 
some  of  the  shoots  should  be  allowed  to  grow  to  carry 
on  a  proper  vegetation,  to  strengthen  and  enlarge  the 
roots.  Great  care  should  be  taken  in  cutting,  not  to 
injure  the  crowns  of  the  roots  by  cutting  the  shoots 
too  close  to  them.  Sea-Kale  should  be  dressed  soon 
after  it  is  cut,  as  the  goodness  of  the  article  greatly 
depends  on  its  not  being  long  exposed  to  the  air. 


Sorrel. — Rum  ex  .icefota. 

The  seeds  of  the  Broad  Leaved  English  Scrirel, 
and  also  of  the  Round  Leafed  or  French  Sorrel,  may 
be  sown  in  April  and  May,  in  beds  or  borders,  and 
covered  lightly.  When  the  plants  are  up,  keep  them 
free  from  weeds  ;  they  may  be  afterwards  thinned  to 
the  distance  of  nine  inches  from  each  other,  or  trans- 
planted into  fresh  ground. 

The  old  standing  roots  of  either  kind  may  be  sepa- 
rated and  planted  for  increase  ;  this  should  bo  done 


SHALLOT.  ^ 

Ttt  April.  As  fast  as  the  plants  shoot  up  to  seed  cut 
tliem  down  close,  and  a  new  crop  of  leaves  will  be 
produced.  It  is  used  raw  as  a  salad,  or  boiled  for 
greens. 


SKiRRET. — Shim  Sisarum. 

This  plant  is  cultivated  first  by  seed,  and  after-^ 
Wards  by  offsets  taken  from  the  old  roots,  and  planted 
very  early  in  the  spring,  and  before  they  begin  to- 
^boot,  but  it  is  best  to  raise  a  small  bed  from  seed 
every  year,  as  the  roots  grow  longer  than  those  raised 
from  slips,  and  are  less  liable  to  be  sticky.  The 
seed  may  be  sown  in  drills  the  latter  end  of  Marcl?. 
or  early  in  April,  and  managed  the  same  as  Salsify, 
Parsnips,  &c.  In  Autumn,  when  the  leaves  begin 
to  decay,  the  roots  will  be  fit  to  use,  and  continue  so 
till  they  begin  to  shoot  in  the  spring. 

Skirrets  should  be  planted  in  a  light  moist  soil,  for 
iu  dry  land  the  roots  are  generally  small,  unless  thcf 
season  proves  wet.  The  root  of  the  Skirret  is  com- 
posed of  several  fleshy  tubers,  as  large  as  a  man's 
finger,  and  joining  together  at  top.  They  are  eaten 
boiled,  and  stewed  with  butter,  pepper,  and  salt,  or 
rolled  in  flour  aud  fried,  or  else  cold  with  oil  and 
vinegar,  being  first  boilcf.  They  have  much  of  the 
faste  and  flavour  of  a  Parsnip,  but  a  great  deal  more- 
palatable. 


6^  SHALLOT  AND    SPINNAGE' 

Shallot. — Allium  Jiscalonicum,- 

The  true  Shallot  is  a  native  of  Palestine,  and  is  con^ 
sidered  to  possess  the  most  agreeable  flavour  of  any 
of  the  Allium  genus.  It  is  consequently  highly  de- 
serving of  cultivation.  They  are  propagated  by 
planting  bulbs  or  offsets  in  the  fall  of  the  year  ;  which 
may  be  set  out  with  a  dibble,  in  rows  twelve  inches 
apart,  by  four  to  six  inches  distance  in  the  rows  ;  or 
ihey  may  be  placed  in  drill*  two  or  three  inches  deep 
and  covered  up  with  a  trowel  or  hoe.  The  gar- 
deners about  New  York  plant  large  quantities  of  the 
liulbs  early  in  September  ;  by  this  means  they  are 
enabled  to  supply  the  markets  in  April  and  May  with 
.i  mild  Allium  which  meets  a  ready  sale. 

After  the  tops  die  down,  the  bulbs  must  be  taken 
up,  and  the  oftsets  divided :  a  portion  of  these  should 
)5e  kept  in  a  dry  place  to  plant  the  ensuing  Autumn. 


Spinach  or  Spinnage. — Spinacia. 

Varieties. — Round    Leaved,  or  Summer — PricJileij 
or  Fall — JWiv  Zealand,  or  Tetragona  expansa. 

The  Spinacia  Oleracea,  or  common  Spinach,  is  verv 
iiardy,  the  seed  of  which  should  be  sown  in  several 
sowings  from  the  first  to  the  end  of  September ;  the 
Ibrwardest  of  these,  if  covered  up  with  straw  at  the 
approach  of  cold  weather,  will  furnish  greens  for  the 
itible  when  other  vegetables  art  sCBrce,  ahd  the  Fatt^* 
crops  will  recover  the  effects  of  a  hard  t^int«r,  and 
produce  a  wholesome  vegetable  ^arly  ia  the  spl-ing. 


SQUASH-.  69 

If  Spinach  seed  be  sown  in  rich  ground  in  March 
and  April,  it  will  grow  freely,  but  it  nnust  be  cut  before 
the  approach  of  hot  weather,  or  it  will  run  to  seed. 

It  is  altogether  useless  to  sow  Spinach  seed  in  poor 
ground  ;  let  the  ground  be  well  manured,  with  good- 
strong  dung,  and  it  will  well  reward  you  for  your 
trouble  by  its  abundant  produce. 

The  New  Zealand  Spinach  is  of  late  introduction 
into  this  country ;  its  nature  seems  to  be  opposite  to 
(he  common  Spinach,  as  it  will  endure  the  heat  better 
than  the  cold.  It  may  be  obtained  in  the  summer, 
by  planting  the  seeds  in  April  and  May,  Being  of 
luxuriant  growth,  it  should  be  planted  in  hills  three 
feet  apart,  and  about  two  seeds  in  a  hill:  The  leaves 
will  be  fit  for  use  during  the  summer,  and  until  late 
in  the  fall. 

Squash. — Cucurbita  melopepo. 

Varieties. — Early  Bush  Summer — Stnmner  Cvool 
JVeck — Long  Crook  JVec^,  or  Bell  Vegetable 
JSIarroiv. 

The  Early  Bush  Squashes  are  best  for  garden  cul- 
ture, and  their  produce  is  allowed  to  be  equal  in 
quality  to  the  running  kinds.  The  Vegetable  Mar- 
row is  also  well  deserving  of  cultivation.  The  seeds 
of  these  may  be  planted  early  in  May,  in  hills  four 
or  five  feet  apart,  prepared  as  directed  for  Melon? 
and  Cucumbers.  The  Running  Squash  may  bo 
planted  at  the  same  time  and  in  the  same  manner  as 
Pumpkins ;  and  the  management  of  these  various 
kinds  of  vines  must  be  the  same  in  every  respect  as 


0  TOMATOE. 


i 


Cucumbers  and  Melons.  It  is  always  best  to  pu 
tive  or  six  seeds  in  a  hill,  as  a  guard  against  acci- 
dents. \yhen  the  plants  are  past  danger  they  can 
be  thinned  to  two  or  three  in  a  hill. 

ToMATOE. — Solamim  Lycopersicuvu 

The  Tomatoe,  or  Love  Apple  is  much  cultivated 
ior  its  fruit  in  soups  and  sauces,  to  which  it  imparts 
an  agreeable  acid  flavour  ;  and  is  also  stewed  and 
dressed  in  various  ways,  and  very  much  admired. 

The  seeds  should  be  sown  the  early  part  of  March, 
Ml  a  slight  hotbed,  and  the  plants  set  out  in  the  opea 
;;round  the  first  week  in  May.  In  private  gardens 
it  will  be  necessary  to  plant  them  near  a  fence,  or  to 
provide  trellices  for  them  to  be  trained  to,  in  the 
manner  recommended  for  Nasturtiums  ;  they  will 
iiowever  do  very  well  if  planted  out  four  feet  distant 
from  each  other  every  way. 

Tomatoes  may  be  brought  to  perfection  late  in  the 
summer,  by  sowing  the  seed  in  the  open  ground  the 
rirst  week  in  May ;  these  plants  will  be  fit  to  trans-s 
plant  early  in  June. 


TURNlf.  7i 

Turnip. — Brassica  rapa. 

[Those  marked  f,  are  best  for  family  use.] 

Varieties. — Early  White  Dutch,/. — Early  Garden 
Stone,  f. —  White  Flat  or  Globe — Green  Round  or 
Green  Top — Red  Round,  /.  or  Red  Top — Swans 
Eggjf. — Large  English  JYorfolk — Long  Tankard, 
or  Hanover,/. — Long  Yellow  Foench,/. — Yellow 
Maltese,/. — Yellow  Merdeen — Yellow  Stone,/.— 
Yellow  Sweedish  or  Russia. 

This  is  a  valuable  vegetable  and  its  culture  gene^ 
rally  very  well  understood.  It  being  the  last  escu- 
lent vegetable  on  our  catalogue,  that  is  raised  from 
seeds  sold  at  our  several  seed  stores,  I  shall  en- 
deavour to  stimulate  those  of  our  Yeomanry  who 
have  hitherto  neglected  the  culture  of  this  field,  as 
well  as  garden  production,  to  exertion  and  diligence, 
by  inserting  a  few  short  extracts  from  a  paper  that 
now  lays  before  me.  The  following  statement  re- 
lates to  a  country  that  contains  only  about  60  millions 
of  acres,  capable  of  cultivation,  and  which  supports 
upwards  of  20  millions  of  human  beings,  besides 
m-illions  of  brutes  from  the  products  of  its  soil,  she 
also  exports  vast  quantities  of  some  kinds  of  produce 
from  this  source. 

*'  Culture  of  Turnips. — Until  the  beginning  of  the 
eighteenth  century,  this  valuable  root  was  cultivateli 
only  in  gardens  or  other  small  spots  for  culinary 
purposes, but  Lord  To wnsend,  attending  king  Georgti 
the  first,  in  one  of  his  excursions  to  Germany  in  tin; 
quality  of  Secretary  of  State,  observed  the  Turnip  c'uh- 
tivated  in  open  and  extensive  fields,  as  fodder  im' 
cattle,  and  spreading  fertility  over  lands  naturally 


72  TURNIPS. 

i)aiTen ;  and  on  his  return  to  England,  he  brought 
over  some  of  the  seed,  and  strongly  recommended 
the  practice  which  he  had  witnessed,  to  the  adoption 
of  his  own  tenants,  who  occupied  a  soil  similar  t« 
that  of  Hanover.  The  experiment  succeeded  ;  the 
cultivation  of  Field  Turnips  gradually  spread  over  the 
whole  county  of  Norfolk,  and  has  made  its  way  into 
every  other  district  of  England.  The  reputation  of 
the  county  as  an  agricultural  district,  dates  from  the 
vast  improvements  of  heaths,  wastes,  sheeo  walks, 
^ad  warrens,  by  enclosing  and  manuring;  the  fruits  of 
the  zealous  exertions  of  Lord  Townsend  and  a  few 
neighbouring  land  owners,  which  were  ere  long  imi- 
tated by  others.  Since  these  improvements  were  ef- 
.fected,  rents  have  risen  in  that  county  from  one  or 
two  shillings  to  twenty  shillings  an  acre;  a  county 
consisting  chiefly  of  sheep  w  ilks  and  rabbit  warrens 
has  been  rendered  highly  productive,  and  by  dint  of 
management,  what  was  thus  gained,  has  been  pre- 
served and  improved  even  to  the  present  moment. 
Some  of  the  finest  corn  crops  in  the  world  are  now 
growing  upon  land,  which,  before  the  introduction  of 
the  Turnip  husbandry,  produced  a  very  scanty  supply 
of  grass  for  a  few  lean  and  half  starved  rabbits. 

"  Mr.  Colquhoun  in  his  *  Statistical  researches,' 
estimated  the  value  of  the  Turnip  crop  annually 
growing  in  the  united  kingdom  of  Great  Britain  and 
Ireland  at  fourteen  million  pounds  sterHng,  (equal  to 
upwards  of  sixty  3Iilmo.ns  of  noLLiRs.)  But  when 
we  further  recollect  that  it  enables  the  agriculturist  to 
reclaim  and  cultivate  land,  which  without  its  aid, 
would  remain  in  a  hopeless  state  of  natural  barren- 
ness, that  it  leaves  the  land  clean  and  in  fine  condi' 


TURNIP.  73 

tion,  and  also  to  insure  a  good  crop  of  Barley  and  a 
kind  plant  of  Clover,  nnd  that  this  Clover  is  found  a 
most  excellent  preparative  for  Wheat,  it  will  appear 
(hat  the  subsequent  advantages  derived  from  a  crop 
of  Turnips  must  infinitely  exceed  its  estimated  value 
as  fodder  for  cattle.  (Sir  William  Scott  in  the  Quar- 
terly Review.") 

As  I  have  undertaken  to  "  assist  the  Young  Gar- 
dener," I  shall  proceed  to  point  out  the  most  proper 
means  of  cultivating  this  truly  valuable  vegetable  in 
his  garden. 

The  preceding  remarks  show  the  kind  of  land  that 
may  be  made  capable  of  producing  not  only  Turnips, 
but  other  things  of  equal  value.  It  must  however  be 
granted,  that  some  soils  naturally  suit  particular  kinds 
of  vegetables  better  than  others,  and  that  in  general, 
exotic  plants  will  succeed  best  in  such  soils  as  are 
nearest  like  their  own  native  soil.  As  we  have  not 
always  a  choice,  I  would  inform  the  Young  Gardener, 
if  he  has  a  very  light  soil  which  is  not  suitable  for 
vegetables  is  general,  he  may  sometimes  get  two 
crops  of  Turnips  from  it  in  one  year,  by  sowing  seed 
for  the  first  crop  early  in  March,  and  that  for  his  se- 
cond, in  the  middle  of  August.  For  general  crops 
it  will  be  better  to  have  ground  manured  with  shoit 
rotten  dung, or  compost  containing  a  considerable 
proportion  of  coal  or  soapers  ashes.  Ground  that 
has  been  well  manured  for  proceeding  crops,  and  old 
ground  fresh  broken  up,  will  suit  well  for  Turnips. 

The  most  esteemed  kinds  of  Turnips  for  gardens^ 
are  marked  in  the  catalogue,  I  shall  therefore  leave 
my  readers  to  their  own  choice. 
7 


74  RUSSIAN    TURNIP. 

As  the  Yellow  Swedish  or  Russian  Turnip  or  Ruta 
Baga  requires  different  treatment,  I  shall  quote  a 
few  lines  from  the  American  Gardener,  by  William 
Cobbett,  the  great  advocate  for  Ruta  Baga. 

*'  The  Swedish  Turnip,  so  generally  preferred  for 
table  use  here,  and  so  seldom  used  for  the  table  iu 
England,  ought  to  be  sown  early  in  June,  in  rows  at 
a  foot  apart,  and  thinned  to  three  inches  in  the  row.s. 
About  the  middle  of  July  they  should  be  trans- 
planted upon  ridges  three  feet  apart  (in  u  garden) 
and  during  their  growth,  ought  to  be  kept  clean  of 
weeds,  and  to  be  dug  between  twice  at  least  as  deep 
as  a  good  spade  can  be  made  to  go."  "  But  the 
Swedish  Turnip  is  of  further  use  as  producing  most 
excellent  greens  in  the  spring,  and  at  a  very  early 
season.  To  draw  this  benefit  from  them,  the  best 
way  is  to  leave  a  row  or  two  in  the  ground,  and  when 
the  winter  is  about  to  set  in,  cover  them  all  over  with 
straw  or  cedar  boughs.  Take  these  off  when  the 
winter  breaks  up,  and  you  will  have  very  early  and 
most  excellent  greens  ;  and  when  you  have  done . 
with  the  greens,  the  Turnips  are  very  good  to  eat." 

If  the  seed  of  the  Russia  Turnip  be  sown  either 
broadcast,  or  in  drills  the  first  week  in  July,  they  will 
make  fine  roots  by  autumn  without  transplanting,  pro- 
vided the  ground  be  good  and  well  worked.  "When 
the  plants  are  up  strong  they  must  be  hoed  and  thinned 
to  the  distance  of  12  or  15  inches  from  each  other, 
another  hoeing  will  be  necessary  in  5  or  C  weeks  af- 
ierwards.     This  will  make  them  grow  freely. 


HORSE-RADISH.  75 

Horse-Radish — Cochleara  Jlrnioracia. 

This  plant  is  propagated  by  cuttings  from  the  root, 
either  cut  from  the  top  an  inch  or  two  long,  or  some 
old  roots  cut  into  pieces  of  that  length,  or  by  offsets 
that  arise  fram  the  sides  of  the  main  root,  retaining 
the  crowns  or  top  shoots  in  as  m'lny  parts  as  possible. 
These  should  be  planted  as  early  in  the  spring  as 
practicable,  in  rows  two  feet  apart,  and  six  or  eight 
inches  from  each  other  in  the  rows.  The  ground 
should  be  well  manured  and  dug  two  spades  deep, 
and  the  cuttings  should  be  sunk  full  ten  inches  with 
the  crowns  upright ;  this  being  done,  level  the  surface 
of  the  ground,  and  afterwards  keep  it  free  from  weeds 
until  the  plants  are  full  grown.  With  this  manage- 
ment the  roots  will  be  long  and  straight,  and  the  se- 
cond year  after  planting  will  be  fit  for  use.  They 
may  be  taken  up  the  fust  year,  but  then  the  roots 
will  be  slender,  therefore  it  is  the  better  way  to  let 
them  remain  till  the  second.  If  in  taking  up  the  roots 
some  oftsets  be  left  in  the  ground,  they  will  produce 
a  successive  supply  for  many  years. 


Aromatic,  Pot,  and  Sweet  Herbs. 

Anise,  Pimpinella  Jlnisum, 

Basil  Sweet,  Ocymum  Basilicum 
Bush  Basil,  do,     minimum. 

Borage,  Borago  Officinalis. 

Caraway,  Carum  Carni, 

Clary,  Salvia  Sclara, 

Coriander,  Coriandrum  Sativum^ 


'76  AR03XATIC,  POT,  AND  SWEET  HERBS. 

D\\],  Anetkum  Graveolens 

■^Fennel,  Common,  do.     Fcbniculum, 

*  do.    Sweet,  Ho.     Dulce. 
Marigold,  Pot,  Calendula  Officinalis, 
^Marjoram  Sweet,  Origanum  Marjorana. 
*Mint,  Spear,  Mentha    Virides. 

*  do.  Pepper,  do.     Piperita. 

*  do.  Pennyroyal,  do.     Pidegium 
*Sage,  Common,  Salvia  Officinalis. 
Savory,  Summer,  Satureja  Hortensis, 

*  do.     Winter,  do.      JMontana. 
Smallage,  Jtpium  Graveohns. 
^Tarragon,  Jlrte  misia  Dracunculus- 
*Thyme,  Common,  Thymus  Vulgaris. 

*  do.     Lemon,  do.     Serpyllum, 

Aromatic  Herbs  arc  such  as  impart  a  strong  spicy 
odour  and  savoury  taste ;  many  of  them  are  used  as 
small  pot  herbs,  and  for  sauces,  stuffings,  and  other 
uses  in  cooking.  As  only  a  small  quantity  of  these 
are  necessary  in  private  gardens,  a  bye  corner  may 
be  allotted  for  them,  and  such  medical  herbs  as  may 
be  wanted  in  a  family. 

It  may  be  necessary  for  mo  to  explain  as  we  go 
along,  that  there  arc  three  principal  descriptive  names 
given  to  plants,  namely,  Annuals,  Biennials,  and  Pe- 
rennials. The  Annuals  being  hut  of  one  season's 
duration,  are  raised  every  year  frorn  seed.  The 
Biennial  kinds  are  raised  from  seed  one  year,  con- 
tinue till  the  second,  and  soon  after  die  ;  some  of  these 
should  be  also  raised  every  year  from  seed.  The 
Perennials  may  be  also  raised  from  seed,  but  when 
once  raised  they  will  continue  on  the  same  roots 


MEDICINAL  HERBS. 


77 


mnny  years.  Those  marked  *  are  of  the  latter  de- 
scription, and  may  b^propagated  by  suckers,  ofTsets, 
cuttings  or  partings  •£  the  roots. 

Those  who  have  not  already  a  plantation  of  these 
herbs,  may  sow  seeds  of  any  of  the  different  kinds 
in  March  or  April,  in  drills  about  an  inch  deep  and 
twelve  inches  apart,  each  kind  by  itself.  The 
plants  may  be  afterwards  transplanted  into  separate 
beds  :  or,  if  a  drill  for  each  kind  be  drawn  two  £eGt 
apart,  the  seed  may  be  sown  in  them,  and  the  plants 
afterwards  thinned  out  to  proper  distances  according 
to  the  natural  growth  of  the  different  kinds  of  plants; 


Plants  Cultivated  for  Medicinal  Purposes,  &c-. 


Boneset  or  Thor'oughwort, 

*Balm, 

Bean  Castor-Oil, 

Burdock, 

Catnep, 

Celandine, 

^Chamomile, 

*Comfrey, 

*Elecampane, 

Feverfew, 

*Horehound, 

*Horsemint, 

*Hyssop, 

*Lavender, 

Lovage  or  Smellage, 

*Mallow,  Marsh, 

7* 


Eupaioynum  Perfolintum. 
Melissa  Officinalis, 
Ri<:inits  Communis. 
Arctium  Lappa, 
JS^epeta  CataHa, 
Chelidonum  JMajus. 
Anthemis  JVohilis. 

Symphytum  Officinale. 

Inula  Helenium. 
J\Iatvica/ria  PariJienimn. 

J\Taruhium  Vvlgare. 
Monardd  Punctata. 
Hysopus  Officinalis. 

Lavendula  Spica 
Ligusticum  Levislicuntv 

Althca  Officinalis. 


7S  MEDICINAL  IIERB5. 

'*Pink  root  Carolina,  Spigelia  Marilandica. 

t*oppy  Opium,  (annual,)  Papaver  Somtuferum. 
"Rosemary,.  Rosmarinus  Officinalis. 

^^Rue  Garden,  Ruia  Graveolens. 
*Scullcap  or  Mad  Dog  Plant,  Scutellaria  Lateriflora, 

*Snakeroot,  Yirgrnian,  Aristo!ochia  Serpcntaria. 

^Southernwood,  .  Jlrlemisia  Jihrolanum. 

^Speedwell  Virginian.  Veronica  Virginica. 

^Spikenard,  Jlralia  Racimosa. 

-Tansey,  Tanacetum  Vulgare. 

«^ Wormwood,  Artemisia  Msinthium. 

The  generality  of  Aromatic,  Sweet,  and  Medicinal 
Herbs,  may  be  raised  from  seeds  sown  in  March  and 
April.  The  greater  part  of  the  above  described  plants 
are  Perennial,  and  will  multiply  from  seeds  they  drop, 
or  from  partings  of  the  roots.  The  offsets,  roots,  or 
young  plants  thus  raised,  should  be  planted  at  suitable 
distances  from  each  other  early  in  the  spring.  The 
beds  should  be  afterwards  kept  free  from  weeds,  and 
as  the  herbs  come  into  flower,  they  should  be  cut  on 
a  dry  day,  and  spread  in  a  shady  place"  to  dry  for 
winter  use.  In  the  month  of  October  the  beds  should 
be  examined.  Lavender,  Rosemary,  and  other  tender 
herbs  should  be  taken  up,  potted  and  placed  in  a 
frame  or  green  house  for  the  winter.  Thymo,  Hys- 
sop, Winter  Savoury,  Southernwood,  Sage,  Rue,  and 
the  like  will  require  their  tops  to  be  neatly  dressed  ; 
and  Pot  Marjoram,  Burnet,  Tarragon,  Tansey,  Pen- 
nyroyal, Sorrel,  Chamomile,  Fennel,  Horehound, 
Mint,  Lovage,  and  other  kind  of  hardy  Peren- 
nial herbs,  should  be  cut  down  close  tothe  ground. 
After  this  it  will  be  proper  to  dig  lightly  and  loosen 


0.  PLAN  OP  BEDS,    &C.  79^ 

the  ground  between  the  roots  of  the  shrubby  plants  ; 
but  the  beds  of  close-growing  running  plants,  such 
as  Mint,jRunning  Thyme  and  all  other  creeping  herbs, 
will  not  well  admit  of  digging ;  therefore,  after  the 
stalks  are  cut  down,  and  the  beds  cleared  of  weeds., 
dig  the  alleys  and  strew  some  of  the  loose  earth 
evenly  over  the  beds  j  and  if  the  ground  be  rather 
poor  or  light,  atop  dressing  of  very  rotten  dung  will  be 
of  considerable  service. 

This  dressing  will  give  proper  nurture  and  pro- 
feclion  to  the  root3  of  the  plants,  a  neat  appearance 
to  the  whole,  and  in  spring  the  shoots  will  rise  with 
renewed  vigour. 

Concluding  Directions. 

Having  finished  the  catalogue,  I  proceed  to  give 
directions  for  making  the  most  of  a  piece  of  ground 
well  manured  for  early  crops.  In  the  general  direc- 
tions at  the  commencement,  I  observed  that  good 
rich  manure  was  indispensably  necessary  to  the 
production  of  some  particular  kinds  of  vegetables  i 
it  maybe  further  observed,  that  rich  ground  will  pro^ 
duce  two  or  three  valuable  crops,  but  it  requires 
some  attention  to  make  use  of  it  to  the  best  advaa- 
tage.  If  the  gardener  have  leisure  to  dig  his  ground  in 
Marcher  April,  that  he  intends  for  Beans,  Cucum- 
bers, Tomatoes,  Egg-Plants,  or  other  tender  plants, 
he  may  raise  Radishes,  Spinach,  Lettuce,  or  other 
Salads  on  it,  by  leaving  a  space  for  his  hills  or 
drills  ;  or  radish  seed  may  be  sown  lightly  over  beds 
of  Beets,  Carrots  or  Parsnips,  but  they  must  not  bo 
suffered  to  run  to  seed,  as  this  would  injure  the  other 
plants.  When  the  first  crops  are  gathered,  it  requires 
a  little  cansideration  before  a  second  is  planted,  in 


so  PLAN    OP    BEDS,    &C.  ^ 

order  that  a  sufficient  quantity  of  the  best  of  the 
ground  be  reserved  for  the  most  pariicular  and  valu- 
able kinds  of  vegetables.  That  I  maybe  understood, 
I  have  adopted  the  following  plans,  representing 
beds  of  earth,  this  will  answer  the  same  purpose  as 
bringing  my  readers  on  the  ground  : 

No.  1.  The  following  lines  represents  drills  six  inche-s 
apart  : 

March  25. — Sow  Leek,  Parsley,  or  Celery,  &c. 

Do.  Radish  Seed, 

Do.  Leek,  Parsley,  or  Celery,  &c. 

The  Radishes   being  pulled  early  in  May,  leaves 
the  intermediate  ground  for  the  other  plants. 

iVo.  2.  Drills  10  or  12  inches  apart — 
April  1. — Sow  Spinach  or  Radish  Seed. 

24. — Plant  early  Cabbage  Plants. 

1. — Sow  Spinach  or  Radish  Seeds. 


By  the  lime  the  Cabbages  requires  the  whole  of 
ihe  ground,  the  Spinach  or  Radishes  maybe  gathered. 

If  this  bed  be  cleared  of  the  second  crop  by  the 
middle  of  J  uly,  it  may  be  planted  with  Celery,  Tur- 
nips, or  Black  Radishes.     If  the  Cabbages  be  of  the 


PLAN    OF    BEDS,    &C-  81 

late  heading  kinds,  the  ground  may  be  reserved  for 
the  first  sowing  of  Spinach,  Fetticns,  Lettuce,  &c. 
in  which  case  it  will  require  a  fresh  coat  of  manure. 


No.  3.  Rows  or  drills  14  inches  apart  : 
March  20. — Plant  Hardy  Lettuce  Plants. 

Do.  Hardy  Lettuce  Plants. 

Hoe  them  the  first  week  in  April- — previous 
to  hoeing  the  second  time,  draw  a  drill  between  each 
row  of  plants,  and  plant  beet  or  carrot  seed  ;  this^ 
may  be  covered  up  in  hoeing  the  Lettuce,  and  by  the 
time  the  plants  are  up  strorig,  the  Lettuce  will  be  fit 
to  cut. 

If  these  roots  are  well  attended  to,  they  may  be 
cleared  off*  soon  enough  to  produce  fall  Cabbage, 
liCeks,  Celery,  Turnips,  Black  Radishes,  &c. 

No.  4.  Rows  or  drills  16  inches  apart : 
March  25. — Plant  Hardy  Lettuce  Plants. 

Do.  Hardy  Lettuce  Plants. 


April   20. — Plant   early  York    Cabbage    Plants, 
either  between  the  rows  or  between  the  Lettuce. 


S2  PLANS    OF    BEDS,    &C. 

As  soon  as  the  Lettuce  is  off,  hoe  the  Cabbage 
and  it  will  soon  cover  the  ground. 

This  ground  will  be  suitable  for  a  crop  of  any  of 
the  kinds  above  mentioned,  except  Cabbage,  the 
roots  of  which  are  apt  to  get  defective,  if  the  same 
ground  be  planted  with  Cabbage  twice  in  succes- 
sion. 

The  above,  or  preceding  plans,  present  a  fair  spe- 
cimen of  what  nviy  be  done  on  a  small  piece  of  good 
i^round.  If  the  young  gardener  will  take  the  trou- 
ble to  keep  an  account  of  his  transactions,  he  would 
soon  make  discoveries  of  still  greater  importance. 
If  he  be  not  sufficiently  acquainted  with  the  different 
kinds  of  Cabbage  Plants,  for  instance,  so  as  to  dis- 
tinguish one  from  the  other,  ho,  by  making  a  memo- 
randum of  the  time  of  sowing  the  seed,  would  soon 
get  acquainted  with  the  different  kinds  of  plants  ;  he 
would  also  discover  the  difference  in  the  growing  of 
his  seeds,  and  know  who  to  blame  if  any  particular 
kind  should  not  come  up. 

The  follov.ing  represents  a  hot  bed  with  four  sashes, 
sown  March  1st. 


I  No.  1. 

iThorbum's    Early  York 
iCabbage  Seed. 


No.  3. 
Russell's   Early  Lettuce 


No.  2, 
Smith's  Early  Battersea 
Cabbasre  seed. 


No.  4. 
Bridgeman's      Tomatoe 


uusb^n:.    x.ar.y     i.«uu^«  ^^^    Egg-Plant    SCCds    in 

l'^^^^-  Ishallow  drills 


HOT  BEDS  83 

It  may  be  necessary  to  remind  ray  readers  of  the 
necessity  of  being  always  prepared  to  sow  Cabbage, 
Egg-Plant,  Lettuce,  and  Tomatoe  seeds  in  hot  beds 
the  last  week  in  February  or  early  in  March,  for  this 
purpose,  let  some  fresh  stable  dung  and  rich  compost 
be  engaged  beforehand.  Some  gardeners  make 
their  beds  on  the  level  ground,  but  it  is  always  safest 
to  make  a  pit  from  eighteen  inches  to  two  reet  deep  ; 
in  order  to  do  this,  a  heap  of  dung  should  be  deposit-, 
ed  on  the  ground  intended  for  the  beds  before  the 
frost  sets  in  ;  by  this  means  the  ground  will  be  pre- 
served from  frost,  and  good  earth  may  be  obtained 
from  the  pits  without  any  difficulty. 

The  fresh  dung  should  be  spread  regularly  in  the 
pits  to  the  depth  of  twenty  to  twenty  four  inches  : 
as  soon  as  the  dung  begins  to  heat,  cover  it  with  six 
or  eight  inches  deep  of  mould  ;  then  lay  on  tlie 
sashes,  and  protect  the  beds  from  the  inclemency 
of  the  weather.  In  two  or  three  days  the  rank  steam 
may  pass  off,  it  will  then  be  necessary  to  stir  the 
.mould  before  the  seeds  be  sown,  to  prevent  the  grov/Ui 
of  young  weeds  that  may  be  germinating  ;  then 
sow  the  seeds  as  equally  as  possible,  reserving  a 
small  quantity  of  the  warm  mould  to  be  sown  or 
sifted  over  the  seeds.  The  beds  should  be  after- 
wards attended  to  as  directed  for  Brocoli  and  Cau^ 
liflower.  This  description  of  a  hot  bed  is  intended 
expressly  for  the  raising  of  spring  Cabbage,  Lettuce. 
Tomatoes,  and  such  other  plants  as  may  be  required 
for  early  plnnting.  Beds  made  earlier  in  the  season, 
or  for  forcing,  will  require  a  greater  substance  o't" 
manure. 

Were  I  disposed,  I   might  extend   this  work  to 
double  its  bulk,  but  I  must  as  I  have  hitherto  done:- 


FORCING  VEGETABLES. 

confine  myself  as  nearly  as  practicable  to  the  object 
mentioned  in  my  preface.  If  another  edition  should 
be  called  for,  I  shall  direct  the  attention  of  my  fellow 
citizens  more  at  large,  to  the  advantages  that  may  be 
derived  from  forcing  vegetables.  The  following 
simple  method  of  forcing  vegetables  on  a  small 
scale,  is  recommended  by  a  correspondent  of  the 
Xiondon  Magazine  for  June  1828. 

"  Mushrooms  in  winter  I  obtain  by  a  very  simple 
though  not  a  new  process.  Provide  boxes  three  feet 
long,  and  one  foot  eight  inches  deep  ;  a  quantitv  of 
horse  droppings,  perfectly  dry;  some  spawn  and  some 
light  dry  soil.  Fill  the  boxes  by  layers  of  droppings, 
spawn,  snd  soil,  which  must  be  trodden  perfectly 
tight ;  repeat  these  triple  layers  till  the  boxes  are 
full,  and  all  trodden  firmly  together. 

Four  such  boxes  at  work,  are  sufficient  for  a  mo- 
derate demand  ;  and  of  a  dozen,  four  brought  on  at 
a  time,  and  placed  upon  the  flue  of  a  greenhouse  stove, 
will  produce  a  fine  supply.  The  surface  of  these 
portable  beds  may  be  covered  with  a  little  hay,  and 
occasionally,  though  sparingly,  watered.  It  is 
not  absolutely  necessary  that  they  be  set  on  the 
flue  of  a  hot  house  :  the  kiichen  cupboard^  or  any 
other  similar  place,  will  suit  equally  well.  This 
plan  is  also  convenient  for  afibrding  a  plentiful  stock 
of  superior  spawn. 

The  same  sized  boxes  will  also  do  for  Jisparagus ; 
but  for  this  purpose  a  sufficient  stock  of  three  year 
old  plants  must  be  at  hand  ;  also  eighteen  boxeS;, 
four  of  which  are  the  necessary  set  to  be  forced  at 
one  time  for  a  middling  family.  Half  fill  the  boxes 
with  decayed  tanners  barlf,  leaf  mould,  or  any  other 


FORCING     VEGETABLES.  85 

similar  mould  ;  on  this,  pack  in  the  roots  as  thickly 
as  possible,  and  fill  up  the  boxes  with  the  bark,  &c. 
Any  place  in  a  forcing  house  will  suit  them  ;  on  the 
Hue  under  the  stage,  or  in  short,  any  place  where 
they  can  enjoy  the  necessary  degree  of  heat.  Be- 
sides Asparagus  and  Mushrooms,  Sea- Kale,  Rhubarb, 
Buda  Kale,  Angelica,  Small  Salad,  as  also  other  pot 
herbs,  may  be  raised  in  the  same  manner." 

Those  who  have  not  the  conveniencies  recom- 
mended in  a  greenhouse,  &c.,  may  place  the  boxes 
in  a  hot  bed.  The  glasses  being  laid  on  and  the  beds 
covered  at  nights,  will  soon  promote  the  growth  of  the 
plants,  and  produce  vegetable  luxuries  at  a  season 
when  garden  products  in  general  are  comparatively 
scarce . 

It  is  unnecessary  to  show  of  how  much  value  such 
processes  may  be  in  minor  establishments,  or  in  a 
young  country.  I  wish  it  to  be  understood,  that  in 
order  to  the  successful  cultivation  of  some  of  the 
rare  vegetables  I  have  treated  of,  great  pains  must 
be  taken  in  every  stage  of  their  growth.  If  the  ad- 
vice I  have  given  be  attended  to,  I  flatter  myself  we 
shall  soon  obtain  a  supply  of  many  of  these  luxurie5 
of  the  garden.  My  directions  are  founded  on  the 
success  attending  the  practice  of  some  of  the  best 
gardeners  in  this  country.  I  have  had  also  sufficient 
experience  to  warrant  me  in  this  attempt  to  contri- 
bute my  mite  towards  the  "  attainment  of  this  kind 

of  useful  knowledge." 

8 


S6  rLowERS, 

FLOWERS. 

*'  "Whate'er  has  beauty,  worth,  or  power. 
Or  grace,  or  histre,  is  a  flower  ; 
Y>lt  is  a  flower  ;  and  bards  prepare 
The  flowers  of  fancy  for  the  fair  ; 
Deep  in  the  bosom  dwells  a  flower, 
Not  time  shall  taint,  nor  death  devour  ; 
A  Flower  that  no  rude  season  fears. 
And  VIRTUE  is  the  fruit  it  bears." 

Inscribed  to  Miss  *^^***. 


A  Catalogue  of  Annual  Flower  Seeds. 
Alkekengi  or  Kite  flower,  Atropa  physaloides. 
Alyssum  Sweet,  Ahjssuvi  mariiium. 

§  Amaranthas  three  co- 
loured, Amaranthus  tricolor. 

Amethyst  blue,  Amethystea  coernlea. 

§  Balsamines  of  various 

colours,  Impatiens  halsamina. 

Bladder  ketmia,  Hibiscus  irionum. 

Blue  bottle  great,  Centaiirca   cyanus  major 

Blue  bottle  small.  Do.     cyanus  minor. 

§  Brovvallia     (blue    and 

white,)  Browallia  elata. 

§  Cacalia  scarlet,  Cacalia  coccinea. 

Candytuft  white  and  pur- 
ple, Iberis, 
Do.  sweet  scented.  Do.    odorata. 

Catch-fly,  Silme  armeria. 

§  Centaurea,  great  Ame- 
rican, Geniaurea  J[mericana. 


FLOWERS-  87 

Chrysanthemam,    white, 

yellow,    and   tri-co- 

loured  Chrysanthemum    coronari- 

um. 
§    Cockscomb,   crimson 

and  yellow,  Celoeia  cristata. 

''•   Convolvulus,  dwarf.        Convolvulus  minor. 
Coreopsis  Golden,  Coreopsis  tinctoria. 

Cuckolds  Horn,  (two  sta- 

mined,  Martynia  diandria. 

Devil  in  a  Bush  or  Love 

in  a  mist,  Nigella  damasccna. 

*  Evening  Primrose,         Oenothera  grandijlora. 
Eternal  Flower,  yellow,    Xeranthemum  lucidum. 

Do.  purple,  Do.       annuum. 

Euphorbia,  variegated.  Euphorbia  variegaia. 

Feather,  grass,  Stipa  pinnata. 

Flos  adonis,  Adonis  miniata, 
§     Globe     Amaranthus, 

purple,    white     and 

striped,  Gomphrena  globosa, 

Hawkweed,   yellow  Crepis  barbata  auyanlia. 

do.  red,  do.         rubra. 

*  Hedge  Hogs,  Medicago  intertexta. 

§  Ice  Plant,  Mesemhryanthemrtm .  chrys 

tallinum. 
Jacobea  or   Groundsell, 

pnrple  and  white,        Senecio  elegans  and  alba. 
Job's  Tears,  Coix' lachryma  Jobi. 

Larkspur,  broad  leaved,     Delphinium  peregrinium.. 
Bo.      branching  and 
upright,  Do.        consolidum. 


S8  I-LOTVERS^ 

Lavatera,  European,  Lavatera  trimestris. 

Love  lies  bleeding,  Amaranthits  melancholicvs, 

*  Lupins   of  various  co- 

lours, Lupinus. 

Marigold,  African,  Tagetes  erecta. 

Do.     French,  Do.     patula. 

Marigold,  starry,  Calendula  siellata. 

*  Marvel  of  Peru,  (or  4 

o'clock),  Mirabilisjalapa. 

*  Mignonette       (sweet 

scented,)  Reaeda  odorata. 

Nolana  trailing,  JVolana  prostrata. 

*  Oats  aninriated,  Avena  sensativa. 
Pansey  or  Heart's  Ease,   Viola  tricolor. 

*  Poppy  horned,  Glaucum  luteum. 

*  Poppy  officinal  white,    Fapaver  somniferum. 
Pentapetes  scarlet,  Pentapetes  Phcenica. 
Prince's  feather,                Amaranthus  hypocondriacus 
§  Sensitive  plant,  Mimosa  serisitiva. 
Sunflower,  tall  and  dwarf,  Helianthvs  annuus. 
Sweet    Sultan,     purple, 

-  white  and  yellow,        Ccntaurea. 

*  Stock    Ten    Week   or 

giiliflovver,    various 

colours,  Chciraniktis  annuus. 

Touch  me  not,  Koli  me  taiigere. 

Trefoil  crimson,  Triftliitni  incarnatum. 
Do.     sweet  scented,  Do.     odorata. 

*  Yenus's  looking  glass,    Campanula  speculum. 
Venu.s's  navel  wort,  Cotyledon  macrophyllmn, 
Ximenisia  Mexican,  Ximenisia  ensaloides, 
Zinnia  red  and  yellow.  Zinnia, 


FLOWERS, 


89 


The  foUb^ving  are  climbing  plants,  and  will  require 
to  be  planted  in  situations  where  they  can  be  sup- 
ported by  sticks  or  twiue   without  interfering  with 
other  plants. 
Balloon  vine,  or  love  in  a 

pufF,  Carcliosperimini 

§  Cypress  vine,  Ipomoea  coccinea. 

Fumitory  Pink,  Fumaria  fungosa. 

Hyacinth    Bean,  Dolichos,purp.  ^alha. 

Morning  Glory,    various 

colors,  Convoluuhcs  major. 

Balsam  Apple  and  Pear,    Momordica  halsamina. 
Gourd,  the  bottle,  Cucurhiia  lagcnaria. 

Do.     tu'O  coloured.  Do.     licolor. 

Do.     orange,  Do.  ■   aurantia. 

Snake  Melon,  Cucumis  melo  anguinis. 

Sweet    Peas  of  various 

kinds  and  colours,      Lathyms  odorahts. 


AH  kinds  of  annual  Flower  Seeds  may  be  sown 
in  the  month  of  April  and  May,  on  borders  or^bed?^ 
of  clean  light  earth,  which  should  be  previously  ma- 
nured with  rich  compost  or  old  dung.  This  bein«r 
incorporated  well  with  the  soil,  the  beds  should  be 
levelled,  and  the  seeds  sov/n  either  in  small  patches. 
each  kind  by  itself,  or  in  drills  from  1-4  to  1-2  an 
inch  deep,  according  to  the  size  ornature  of  the  seed. 
Those  who  would  have  their  plants  to  flower  early, 
should  sow  the  hardy  kinds  the  last  week  in  March 
or  early  in  April,  the  most  tender  (which  are  marked 
§)  may  be  sown  in  boxes  or  pots  of  light  earth  at 
8* 


90  PLOWERS. 

the  same  time  :  These,  it'  exposed  to  the  sun  everv 
day  and  sheltered  in  cold  nights,  will  be  forwarded 
m  growth,  and  be  fit  to  transplant  early  in  June. 
Those  marked  -  may  also  be  sown  in  small  pots 
As  these  plants  do  not  .veil  bear  transplanting,  they 
should  be  turned  out  of  the  pots  with  the  balls  ol" 
earth  entire,  and  placed  in  the  ground  where  they 
are  intended  to  flower ;  or  if  the  seed  be  sown  in  a 
bed  with  other  kinds,  they  should  be  carefully  trans- 
planted with  a'  trowel,  without  disturbing  the  roots. 
The  most  eligible  way  to  obtain  early  flowers  is  to 
i>repare  a  slight  hot  bed  for  the  tender  kinds,  and 
cither  to  plunge  the  pots  therein  up  to  their  rims,  or 
to  sow  the  seed  in  the  earth  in  shallow  drills  not 
more  than  a  quarter  of  an  inch  deep. 

To  prevent  disappointment,  I  would  recommend 
that  great  care  be  taken  to  keep  the  seed  beds  as 
clear  from  weeds  as  possible.  It  cannot  be  denied 
!>ut  young  plants  are  apt  to  get  smothered  and  some- 
times pulled  up  with  weeds.  To  obviate  this,  I 
would  suggest  that  the  seeds  be  sown  in  shallow 
drills,  each  kind  by  itself,  and  that  an  account  be 
kept  of  the  contents  of  each  drill  in  a  book,  also  ot" 
•ill  seeds  that  are  sown  at  different  times,  and  by  be- 
ing particular  in  the  dptos,  you  may  always  know- 
when  to  expect  your  plauls  to  come  up.  In  order 
that  this  may  be  rendered  plain  to  my  readers,  1 
adopt  the  following  plan  of  entry  of  six  kinds  sown 
in  pots,  and  six  in  the  open  ground. 
April  20,  sowed  flower  seeds  in  pots  : 
Pot  marked  A,  or  1,  Amaranthus  tricolor. 

B,  or  2,   l*.alsamines, 

C,  or  3,   Cockscomb,  crimson. 


i 


fLOWERS- 


91 


J),  or  4,  Egg  Plant. 

E,  or  5,  Ice  Plant. 

F,  or  6,  JSIignonette. 

These  pots  may  be  either  marked  with  letters  or 
Ij'Tures  on  the  outside,  to  answer  with  the  book,  or 
Motches  may  be  cut  in  wood,  or  other  labels  affixed 
fo  the  pots,  and  entered  accordingly. 

April  20,  Sowed  flower  seeds  in  drills,  as  under  : 
No.  1,  Bladder  Ketmia. 
2,   Coreopsis  tinctoria. 
S,   Yellow  Eternal  Flower. 

4,  Globe  amnranthus. 

5,  Prince's  Feather. 

6,  Larkspur  branching. 

it" these  numbers  be  continued  to  100,  or  even  a' 
thousand,  there  can  be  no  mistake,  provided  the 
rows  are  all  marked  according  to  the  entry  in  the 
book  ;  or  if  No,  1  be  noted,  plain  sticks  will  answer 
afterwards,  if  one  be  stuck  at  each  end  of  every  row. 
In  this  case,  it  would  be  well  to  leave  a  space  every 
ten  or  twenty  rows,  and  note  the  number  of  the  rows  ? 
by  this  means  they  can  be  the  more   easily   traced. 

If  the  book  be  kept  by  any  other  than  the  Garden- 
er, each  bag  or  paper  of  seed  should  be  marked  or 
numbered  according  to  the  entry  in  the  book,  and 
given  to  the  Gardener  with  directions  to  sow  them  in 
the  regular  order. 


BlEI^NIAL    AND    PeRENNIAL    FlOWER  SeEDS. 

Those  marked  ||  are  Biennials. 
Bee  Larkspur,  Delphinium  elatnm. 

Campion,  rose,  Jlgrostemma  coronariop 


92 


FLOWERS* 


I j Canterbury  Bells,  (blue    Campamda  medium 

and  white,) 
Cassia,  Maryland, 
Carnation,  Pink, 
Chinese,  imperial  Pink, 
Clove  do, 

Colutea,  scarlet, 
I j Clary,  Purple  topped, 
Crimson  Bergamot, 


Columbine,  double, 
jlFox-glove,   purple, 
do.  while, 

Centian,  Purple, 


Cassia  Marylandica. 

Dianthvs  caryophyllus. 

Do.      Chinensis. 

Do.      hortensis. 
Sutherland! a  Frvtacen's, 

Salvia  sclara. 
Man  a  rda  la  Imiana . 
Aguilegia  vulgaris. 
Digitalis     purpurea. 

do.  alba. 

Gentiana  saponaria. 


Gentian,  Porcelain  flow-  Gentiana  adscendens. 

ered, 
<iilliflo\\'er,  many  sorts,      Chciranthus  irica-nus. 
(ilobe  Thistle,  Echinops  sphdroccphalui 

Hollyhock, black,  Antwerp,  .^/7/iea  fl  nigra. 

Do.      China  of  sorts,  Althea  Ckineiisis. 

Do.       English     do.  Do.    finglica. 

^iKonesty,       or       Satin  Lanaria  hiennis. 

Flov.'er, 
Ivy  Leaved  Toad  Flax,      lAnaria  cynibalaria. 
Jacob's  Ladder,  Polemor'.ium  cerulcunu 

Lupin  Perennial,  Lupinus  2J£ren7us. 

Jiychnis,  Dwarf  Mountain,  Lychnis  Alpina. 


do.     Scarlet, 


Do.     Chalccdonica. 


J.ondon  Pride  or  Maiden  Diunthus 

^  Pink, 
Monks-hood, 
Monkey-Flower,  Blue, 
Phlox,  or  French  Lilac 
Pink,  Pheasant  Eyed; 


lehoidcs. 


Aconitnin  napeUus. 
Mirnxdus  r  in  gens. 
Phlox,  many  species. 
Dianthus  phimarius 


p 


FLOWERS.  9^ 

Purple  perennial  Flax,      Ltninn  perennc. 
Rudbeckia,  yellow    and    Rudbeckia. 

purple, 
Sophora,  white  and  blue,  Sophora. 
Sun  Flower,  perennial,       Ileliantkus  altissimus. 

many  flowering, 
i{  Sweet  Scabious,  Scabiosa  atropurpurea , 

Sweet  Rocket.  Ilesperis  matronolis. 

Sweet  William,  Dianihus  harbaius. 

;|Sweet  Chili  Marigold,      Tugetes  lucida. 
Valerian  Garden,  Valeriana  rubra. 

||Wall  Flower,  Bloody,       Cheiranihns  chciri. 

(Climbing  Plants,) 
Everlasting  Peas,  Lathyrus  laiifolius. 

Purple  Glycine,  Glycine  apios. 

Scarlet  Trumpet  Flovrer,  Bignonia  radicans. 
Sw«et  Virgin's  Bower,  Clematis  flaminula. 
Travellers' Joy,  Do.       Vitalba. 

Virginian  Virgin's  Bower,       Do.      Virginiana . 

Biennial  and  perennial  flower  seeds  may  be  sown 
in  the  month  of  xipril,  in  shallow  drills.  If  this  busi- 
ness be  performed  in  the  manner  recommended  for 
annuals,  they  can  be  easily  distinguished  from.each 
other  ;  and  as  these  plants  do  not  flower  the  first 
year,  they  may  be  thinned  out,  or  removed  from  the 
seed  beds  as  soon  as  they  are  well  rooted,  and  plant- 
ed either  into  difierent  parts  of  the  flower  beds,  or 
in  a  nursery  bed.  If  the  latter  plan  be  adopted,  they 
should  be  planted  in  rows  a  foot  or  more  apart,  and 
kept  free  from  weeds  by  means  of  a  small  hoe,  whicli 
will  greatly  promote  their  growth,  and  prepare  them 
for  transplanting  into  the  ground,  (v/here  they  are  in- 
tended to  flower,)  either  in  the  autumn  or  early  iu 


r>4  TLOWERS. 


I  he  ensuing  spring.  It  may  be  remarked  that  bien- 
nials are  raised  principally  from  seed  sown  every 
year.  They  seldom  survive  the  second  winter  to 
flower  in  perfection,  unless  they  are  renewed  by  cut- 
tings of  top  shoots,  young  flower  stalks,  or  casual 
root-offsets,  layers,  &;c.  It  will  be  unnecessary  to 
take  this  trouble  unless  it  be  with  any  extraordinary 
double-flowering  plants.  Some  of  the  perennials 
may  be  increased  by  root  ofi*se*s  detached  from  the 
old  plants,  and  planted  in  Spring  or  Autumn  ;  others 
by  bottom  suckers  and  slips  of  top  shoots,  layers, 
and  pipings  of  young  shoots,  &c. 

In  removing  plants  into  the  beds  where  they  arc 
intended*  to  flower,  great  pains  should  be  taken  to  ^ 
preserve  some  of  the  earth  to  the  roots,  and  the  grouncf ' 
should  be  previously  brought  into  good'condition,  so 
that  they  may  strike  freely,  and  produce  their  flowers 
in  perfection.  The  plants  should  be  so  arranged 
that  they  may  all  be  seen.  The  most  dwarfish  may 
be  placed  in  front,  and  others  in  a  regular  gradation 
to  the  tallest  behind  ;  or  the  tallest  may  be  planted 
along  the  middle  of  th.-  beds,  and  the  others  on  each 
side  according  to  their  varied  heights  and  colours. 

Those  who  may  be  desirous  of  having  a  complete 
flower  garden,  should  procure  some  of  the  difl*erent 
kinds  of  bullous  and  tuberous  rooted  plants,  such  as 
Peonies,  Hyacinths,  Tulips,  Narcissuses,  Crown 
Imperials,  Lillies,  Jonquils,  Crocuses,  Snow  Drops^ 
&c.  Tiiese,  and  all  other  kinds  of  bulbs,  require  a 
good  soil,  manured  with  old  dung,  and  a  little  coarse 
or  sea  sand.  The  hardy  kinds  should  be  planted  in 
October  or  November,  from  two  to  three  or  four  in- 


I 


FLOWERS.  95 


ches  deep,  according  to  their  respective  size  and 
strength. 

There  is  n.>  part  of  gardening  which  requires  so 
much  elegance  of  taste  and  fancy,  as  in  setting  off  a 
border  or  bed  of  intermixed  flowers  to  advantage. 
In  assemblage  with  other  flowers,  the  different  kinds 
of  hardy  bulbs  may  be  planted  in  small  clumps  of  six, 
seven,  or  eight  inches  in  diameter,  three,  four,  five 
or  more  roots  in  each,  according  to  their  size  and 
growth,  and -these  at  suitable  distances- from  one 
another.  Likewise,  observe  to  diversify  the  kinds 
and  colours,  so  as  to  display  when  in  bloom  the  great-, 
est  possible  variety  of  shades  and  contrasts. 

Flower  beds  should  be  kept  free  from  we^ds,  and 
watered  occasionally  in  the  summer.  In  the  autumm 
they  should  be  covered  with  straw  or  light  litter ; 
this  should  be  taken  off  in  the  spring,  and  the  ground 
should  be  hoed  and  dressed  in  such  a  manner  as  to 
enliven  the  earth  around  the  roots  of  the  plants,  as 
also  to  give  the  whole  a  neat  appearance. 

PLANTS  KEPT  IN  ROOMS. 

The  many  varietes  of  exotic  plants  kept  in  our 
greenhouses  thrive  best  in  a  temperature  and  soil., 
similar  to  thai  in  which  nature  first  produced  them 
hence  those  who  cultivate  the  several  kinds  from  various 
climates,  have  to  provide  suitable  composts  and  also 
separate  departments^  where  the  different  degrees  of 
heat  are  kept  up  according  to  the  nature  and  de^^ 
scription  of  the  plants.      The  generality  of  th0S3 


t)6  FLOWERS, 


denominated  greenhouse  plants,  and  which  are  kept 
in  rooms,  should  be  placed  where  they  can  have  light 
and  sun,  without  being  exposed  to  the  frost.  Air, 
heat,  and  moisture  are  essential  to  the  growth  of 
plants,  but  these  should  be  given  in  due  proportions 
according  to  circumstances.  In  frosty  weather  they 
should  be  kept  from  the  external  air,  and  watered.very 
sparingly.  When  water  is  necessary,  it  should  be 
applied  in  the  morning  of  a  mild  sunny  day.  The 
plants  should  be  kept  free  from  decayed  leaves,  and 
the  earth  at  the  top  of  the  pots  should  be  sometimes 
loosened  to  a  moderate  depth,  and  replenished  ^h 
a  portion  of  fresh  compost.  Plants  kept  in  private 
houses  are  often  killed  with  kindness  ;  the  tempera- 
ture of  a  room  in  the  winter  need  not  be  more  than 
ten  degrees  above  freezing.  If  plants  are  healthy, 
they  may  be  kept  so  by  attention  to  the  preceding 
hints  ;  unhealthyness  generally  arises  from  their 
being  subjected  to  the  extremes  of  heat,  cold,  or 
moisture,  or  from  total  neglect* 


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,,iild  pant  jn  bis  oun^y<?en. 


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